That logic is sound. How will you control ignition advance? If you wanted you could use an EDIS and controller with a standard trigger wheel and still go through the distributor but if you're going to all that trouble why not go to a wasted spark set up and get rid of the distributor all together?

The other way around is to get a better distributor or beef up the bit that's wearing out quickly. I assume it's a plain bush bearing. Can you make it longer? Can you try different bushing materials? There are some excellent modern polymeric bearing materials around. If you're super lucky an Igus bearing might fit straight in.

I use EDIS and Megasquirt, rock solid and completely programmable.

Basically the tach needle starts bouncing (like wiper blades) at around 7000 rpm and gets steadily worse. It will still pull 8000 but you can tell it's got a slight flutter. Basically the motor sounds thrashy. The motor doesn't quite pull as it should. Once the tach starts getting the weave I know the shaft is starting wobble. After I repair the distributor the tach goes back to normal.

Dave tell me if my logic is defective: the modified crank pulley has two blades to trigger the sensor, so it should trigger every 180 degrees which would be 90 degrees on the distributor, there is a plug wire every 90 degrees so it would in theory work (ignition box notwithstanding).

Hey Rally what type of High RPM issues are you having?

If you run your sensor off the camshaft (cam trigger) then I think it will probably work

Crank fire won't work through a distributor, because there is no cam positioning with crank fire. The traditional crank trigger uses two coils and fires each plug twice per 2 revolution (wasted spark). The distributor won't be able to do that as it rotates only once per 2 revolutions

But using the sensor without an ECU or spark controller won't have any mechanical advance. MSD may have a non-computer type spark controller with adjustable advance curve (for use with "locked" distributor)

So here is the deal I have a crank trigger pulley and a modified timing chain cover to fit a sensor/pick up. So my thought was if I use the matchbox unit triggered off the crank and simply use the distributor to distribute the spark I wouldn't have to deal with high rpm issues.

I know that a rebuilt distributor would solve the problem (for a while) but I seem to be wearing them out every couple of years.

If I didn't already have the parts I wouldn't even consider this.