hi wildthing, just a note on your oil fouled plugs...it's gotta be either a bad oil ring on the piston, or bad valve stem oil seals. One way to check is to get that compression tester and do a dry reading on all cylinders and record the results. Then squirt some oil into each cylinder and take a second set of readings. If the readings are higher, ya need new rings. Either way, you'll probably have to rebuild the head or the bottom end. Hope this helps.

Roughneck

I'll check out your insights....I think I should look back on the rebuild of that carb...

few things I noticed:

1) I over adjusted the float (the level is a bit lower) than the middle (some sort of a 'dot') in the view glass.

2) I didn't change the carb top gasket...there could be a leak that's why it is not idling low.

3) the ball bearing you mentioned is in place but there is another "hole" but my stock does not have a ball bearing but rather a stainless hexagon metal with one end flat and the other pointed (the pointed end meets the bottom hole)....I tried substituting this with the ball bearing provided in the carb kit (but since it was for an A10...I'm not sure if caused my problem)...but the lowest idling was about 2000 rpm....when I put back the original hex-sided stainless metal, the lowest idling dropped to 1000 rpm....we figured that the weight of the ball bearing was not enough to stop the gas...so the idling was higher...but I didn't assume that the gaskets could also be the culprit...


Anyways, its a holiday here for us tomorrow so I'll try to check out your suggestions....

Update you soon.

BTW, I've noticed that the spark plugs from 1 and 4 is oily and black...and the 2 and 3 have good "white" burns....could it be that 1 and 4 have bad valves or have busted piston rings? Geezz I gotta have me a compression meter.....

I got a few pictures in the article now, and added the accelerator pump info.

Wildthing, let us know what you find out ... the suspense is killing me.

Glad to hear the acc. pump did the trick.

If it idled at about the right speed before the rebuild, and now it won't idle except faster ... I would suspect the gaskets -- if you changed any gaskets. Probably worthwhile to take the top back off and double-check. Some gaskets look just the same, but the holes are slightly different. There is also that pesky ball bearing that goes below the pump. If you removed the slow jet, I think there is a ball bearing that goes in there too.

The cut-off solenoid should "click" when the ignition key is turned to ON and back off. You could listen for that.

I use a cheap tachometer, but also "listen" for the speed. Any where in the ballpark is OK (say 600-800 rpm will let you adjust the air/fuel mixture).

Also check the sight-glass, make sure the fuel level is at the halfway point on the glass.

On my list to do is put some pictures in the Carb tech section article ...

Quote:

I followed your tip and apparently it was not working....

I bought a repair kit (but what was available was only for an A10 engine carb - I suppose DCG286) nevertheless the pump fits fine.

Thanks...now I got it running!!! Without the choke aid and without the stalling when I rev it up.

BUT I have a new problem...I can't seem to lower the idling to 700.....any recommendation on this?!? It runs at 1,000 rpm...then sometimes it would drop and return when I try the vaccum/air screw and the other screw (which I don't know what it is for) near the primary port (besided the accelerator pump).

PS. I don't have a dwell meter, a timing gun, (to follow your recommendations in the other post about tunning up) and my Tachometer is something I bought from a local auto supply store so I am not really sure whether the RPM that it reads is really very accurate....

Is there any "primitive" ways to do a fine job on this carb?