We tried using 200b struts in our 1200 coupe, however found the springs and spring perch to be to wide and it was hitting on the strut tower. We have gone back to using stanza struts.

Thanks John...got any ideas on price before I go off to the wreckers this Saturday? PM me or ring me on mobile. I know you need to see John first, but just a ball-park will do....

Craig

I should have an answer on those struts in a couple of weeks for you once I have sorted out my stuff.

Hey thanks guys...i'll be scouring the wreckers for 200B front struts unless someone already has them for sale any takers???

that's an easy one dd, lockers are free!

when you're at speed and cornering hard on a racetrack, the inside wheels are relatively unloaded (light) and free to slip relative to road surface, so that fact that they are both locked together at the same speed it isn't such a big deal. Lockers are horrible (and can be dangerous) on the street.

L18_B110, why do you use a locker instead of a limited-slip diff? Is it because they are more reliable? I thought it would still cause tire scrub on a road race circuit.

An old trick but a goody for 200B struts is to get a set of original oil inserts. Drain all the old oil keeping scrupuosly clean. Wash down the strut with metho and warm air dry. Fill the strut with exactly 150cc of 20 weight motorcycle fork oil and exactly 150cc of 25 weight fork oil (total exactly 300cc).

Lap the area on the top screw plug where it goes against the rubber seal and replace the seal with a new viton one.

This little combination carried many race cars through the "budget 1980's

yep, that's pretty much what's in mine except with Stanza struts, Monroe GT gas, and I've cut all the variable (tapered) wire off the Gemini springs.

Once you get some race tyres, try to get more than 3degrees camber and as much castor as you can get, which should completely overcome the understeer induced by the locker. I found when I went from 3 degrees to 4 degrees it transformed the car, and at speed you simply wouldn't know it had a locker in it now.

To fine tune the balance you could get a light rear swaybar from a Corolla if it needs it. Or there are larger aftermarket ones available depending on what it needs.

With the diff swap, if the axle housings are larger (which they probably are), you could cut the bump stop to get your suspension travel back to what it should be.

Thanks for your reply Harry, the rear is a H165 locker with extra leaf spring. It is quite stiff already. I know reverse eye is the way to go but Im leaving it for the time being.
So what youre saying is use a 200B strut, Gemini cut down springs (wired in) and heavy duty gas inserts such as pedders/monroe?
I am using a Jeff Taylor A15. Correct?

can't remember what diameter spring the 200B uses, but if it's the same as Stanza you can do this if you are on a really tight budget.

some of you are going to cringe at this...and it is not legal for road use...

get some standard Gemini front coils. you'll have to cut them to suit as they'll be way too long. You probably want to remove about half of the variable rate part of the spring (where the wire tapers down at one end) if you're using an A series engine, and then get the ride height correct cutting material from the other end of the spring. Wire them in and you'll be fine. Just use whatever inserts you can get, even Monroe will last about a year of this kind of abuse - if you stay off the kerbs. And that might give you enough time to save for some real gear. At least you'll be out on the track having fun! Get a 120Y swaybar as well. This setup can work surprisingly well

what have you done to the rear?