Yeah, I guess you are right..about driving within the limits of the car. And also about city driving. The frequency of unexplainable manouvers is sometimes hard to deal with.

I used to spend 3 hours per day, sitting in peak hour traffic, going to my last job.
Good thing I only drive on weekend these days. Before I know it, I'll become a Sunday driver!! Oh no!. I'd better get into some racing on Sundays to keep up my driving skills.

My 1000 sedan with 1200GX & 5 speed is STILL equiped with it's original drum brake system. I maintained it in top condition always & drove in a manner that best suited the limits of the car.

The only accident damage that i ever sustained was when some idiot tested the strength of my towbars gooseneck at a roundabout. Scratched the paint on the gooseneck he did.

I WANT good disc brakes, but those who have yet to learn how to drive, they NEED them. If one learns when to back off, the disc pads will last almost forever, but then, i do not live in the city,..... thank god.
Chris

Come on Dodgeman..Have you driven a 4 wheel drum equipped 1200 lately Mate! I have trouble believing the car was complied in the first place. Those brakes are almost as bad as fred flintstone brakes (feet through holes in the floor).

But sure it's kinda scary.

The master cylinders that are used for drum brakes use a "residual pressure check valve" in the drum brake circuit[s]. If you are using disc brakes on this type of cylinder, you will need to disable or remove this valve, otherwise, the small amount of residual pressure causes the brakes to drag, but then you knew that.

I tremble when i think that there are people out there who are messing with brake systems without having a FULL UNDERSTANDING of ALL the principals of operation. The potential consequences of this are too frightening to contemplate.
Chris

hey b310gx thats a good idea, as the pads get thinner it seams to b getting worse I'll check the backing plates. Cheers.
Ive talked to a brake specialist and he said there are 2 valves in the m/c that keep a small amount of pressure on the back brakes and some time they are faulty so it might be the case, im hooping its the backing plate or splitter.

i once had a similar problem,& the cause was the backing plates.they were worn in such a way that when the brake shoes had worn down to 1/4 thickness,the shoes would not return properly.the quick fix was new rear shoes & some light filing to get a chamfer.this was on the trailing shoe on both sides,& was due to the age of the backing plates.could be worth a look.

I'd not tried the 1200 splitter.. If you say it works, then I guess the splitter probably isn't the problem in this case either.

But the splitter could still be blocked up or something maybe?

So don't rush out and buy a 180B splitter.

We are getting closer...Maybe the "NEW" master cylinder has a problem. Is it reconditioned..or brand new?

I run a280z master , 1200 drum rear brakes,13/16 wheel cylinders, 4 piston racing frt calipers late 510 rotors and stock 1200 combination (spliter) valve with no problems.
Bob

If both rear drums bind up, no matter what the setting, then I'd go down the path of getting a matching 180B splitter, which also works as a bias valve I think. But if it's one side only, then try and get a replacement wheel cylinder. They might need replacing/cleaning/reconditioning.

Cheers.

cheers bob but i dont run a booster and ive checked the rod to the m/c. I think dattodude will be right on the spliter. Ill try to find a 180b one.