do you have any diagrams or drawing plans etc for the conversion,

has anyone drawn up a book or a plan or some papers to make it a bit easier for the rest of us


we could go into the it was hard for me so it can be just the same for you bit if you want ( sorry a bit bitter with a guy i tried talking to that was as tight as a fish's asshole) he wouldn't give away any answers, prick! anyway.

so is the a CA18DET conversion manual made by someone in thier backyard?

i'm actually working out at mitchell for the next couple of years. I'm between the two locations all the time. Hopefully going to start around christmas time and planning to have it finished by the end of Jan early feb. Still gathering bits and pieces.

Mate, good to see another datto driver around Canberra. I'd like to see some of that conversion and the finished product. I only work down the road from you at Campbell Park, so I should see you driving your weapon hard and sideways pretty much everyday. When do you think you will have the work complete?

cheers,

thanks boys. i'll see how i go and post up pics or something of the conversion. If i can't find any of the required things then i'll get them machined up from a good friend who's a wizz bang with a lathe and mig/tig. He's already doing my intercooler, piping, engine mounts.

I'm actually doing my barke conversion firstly. (4 wheel drums are ####e) Picking up my struts today. Going the full adjustable/coil-over option. Big rotors and skyline calipers. Only prob is i now need 14"/15" rims to fit over the new brakes... I'll keep it posted.

When doing the firewall hole for your clutch, remember that it's not under the original cable clutch location, it will be inline with the brake master cylinder. You may need to make a flat surface to mount the clutch master cylinder on. This is probably the hardest part of the conversion. If you choose to not use a booster, then the job is easy. If you wish to use a booster, then it may be the hardest thing you've ever done in your life. It requires extensive patience and ingenuity.

Chris

you dont need to get the whole pedal box (i.e. steering column holder thingy), just the pin (large bolt) the pedals rotate on, the bushes and the pedals themself and it will replace the old one, your lucky having auto as you will have the larger transmission tunnel

{edit} you also need the metal bracket on the engine side of the firewall that the clutch goes through and to cut this hole in your firewall

that is all pressuming the 1200 pedals are suited to a ca18det conversion

Hey Maz,
I am quite sure you'll just have to find a manual pedal box, it should go in easy, or maybe a 120Y pedal box, I'm not fully sure on either but just to stimulate ideas
Cheers
damo

You should be able to find the engine number somewhere on the block and then call Nissan, they should have a record of all engine numbers and the type of car they were put into.

I did the same thing for an engine out of a
71 honda motorbike and it was no problem.

Hope it helps,
Scott

hey all,

about to convert my datt 1200 sedan to a CA18DET and am interested in a few things. Firstly i'm swapping over the head gasket straight away to avoid any possible seeping from the old one. Nissan can get me a new one but there are two different types? ones about $109 and the other about $140. Question is how can you tell which car your CA has come from? S13 Silvia or 180sx?
Is there anything on the blocks to differentiate between them.

All the rest of the conversion looks pretty straight forward, altough... my sedan is auto.. any straight bolt in manual pedal boxes???

I'll think of anything else when i run into it i suppose. Any help from the dat boys out there?