Hi folks

Its been a long time since I was around these parts, due to work commitments and a lack of computer access.

Ill give the story so you all know where i am up to.

The sedan recieved some minor work 2 years ago, (crap paint job and worked a12), and now its time to do it right this time. I am embarresed at what happened last time.

The budget is reasonable, as in not unlimited, but a few thousand available for mechanicals, and a few thousand available for the paint.

I am looking for a reasonalbly stock looking machine. No stickers, just some nice mags is about it. if I have to fit a hornet scoopto make things fit, then so be it.

First thing, Dattoman_1000

I am wanting to purchase a kit from you for the disk brake conversion for a 1000. I live in Perth normally, so I would like to put in an order for one, and I can pick it up when ever you have it done.
You can email me at reuben.campbell@bhpbilliton.com with more details when you have them.

I have sourced an a15 with a 5 speed (60A I think) for it and am chasing info from anyoine who has had success with this conversion. I am under the impression that they dont fit (height) under the bonnet without holes.

I want to go EFI, so no carbies to worry about, and more options.

The gearbox is also another issue. My understanding is that I need to massage, just a little, the tunnel around the reverse switch to make it fit.

As far as mounts for the gearbox and engine go, can I just make up adaptors from the original mounts or do I need to cut and move?

The radiator is the next challenge, and I have modified an original one so that it is now a 3 core, and thios keeps a fairly worked a12 cool mostly, but what should I look at for a worked a15?

I have found the some have had success with a huyundi radiator, but I had probelms finding a thermo that was thin enough to fit in with the current a12.

Any help, links, opinions, ideas would be appreciated.

Cheers

reuben

gday gday

Firstly, you can fit an a15 no probs at all. Not sure what you do about the gearbox, but im sure that its quite straightforward.

In terms of engine mounts, if the ones you have at the moment are in okay nick, you can just weld an extention plate (just a thick piece of flat steel) that extend forward about an inch from memory. Its really easy. However, they dont make 1000 engine mounts anymore. but they do make 1200 ones. So I be buying 4 x 1200 engine mounts and making it so you can just put the nice new 1200 ones in.

The 1000 radiators are bigger (well at least coupe ones) than 1200 ones by a couple of inches. Give it a go and see how it holds up. I have heard a gemani radiator is fairly easy to transplant in.

Good luck!

Righto, that gives me some direction. The radiator that I modifed was a 1000 one. The top tanks are larger than the botttom ones, so I just nicked another top tank, had that welded onto the bottom and bam, now 3 cores fit in, but its just too wide for the slim line thermos that i had, so its the standard fan.

The mounts issue is comforting. If all i have to do is throw on some ataptor plates, then thats easy to do.

I still havent decided on what the engine will entail. Fuel infestation is a must, but not sure if forced induction is the way to go. Not even sure what sort of horsepower i should be aiming for. I want a car that looks normalish, that can take on modern cars with some success. 150bhp is a number that is floating around in my head, but i dont even know if that is acheivable without sending the motor to NASA.
What sort of figures do other have for a worked a15? and what sort of work?

Welcome back.

The only clearance issues you might find with the A15 is the stock air filter to bonnet, but a lower induction system like your RFI will fix that little problem.

At worst, some Cortina engine mount rubbers & some flat steel, & you're done.

The 1000 radiator is, .... as has been said, larger than the 1200 & works well. You will find that with more powerfull engines that you use high power settings less often & for shorter periods when driving normally, so the engines heat output is not much different from an overworked stocker. I think that your radiator will be fine.

I used an unmodified stock radiator in my 1000 sedan with the GX engine for many many years & it never overheated, ...... ever.

For street use, I suspect that 150 hp is a bit ambitious & un-necessary. My GX must have been only a little over stock [about 90 at the fly] & I loved it. If you can get somewhere between 100 to 110 hp you will be amazed just how well it runs. The additional torque resulting from the extra 1/2" stroke of the A15 will transform the driving feel & make you glad you made the switch.
If you tow anything [I did] then that will feel much better too.

Ahh thats the sort of info that i am chasing. Some logic from some body that knows. Cheers Dodgeman.
Working out what sort of hp to aim for is difficult to visualise as I have never had any of my cars on a dyno to match numbers with experience. If you think that about 100-110bhp is enough, then thats the aim. This car is really only going to be a Sunday/ nice day driver as I have another car that is more suitable to my daily grind.

The end result that I want to achieve is a car that looks stockish, and unassuming, a sleeper if you will, and has enough go to make people think that they are dreaming and a car of that vintage should not go that well. I guess i want t it to fit into a fast street catagory.

What sort of modifications should i be looking at to achieve this 110 mark. I am gussing
Mild head porting
extractors and good exhaust
EFi of course
thermo fan if I can find one to fit.

If the concenus is the 1000 radiator is good enough, then ill stick with that, at least for the time being.

Yay another 1000 build in Perth!

Ive just recontly put a A15 in my 1000 wagon. What i did for engine mounts insted of just bolting a peice of plate in is weld some 3mm angle iron onto the subframe. Seems a hell of alot stronger this way! And yeh they fit no worries!

Radiator wise. Ive been searching around for ages for a modern alloy radiator that will fit in a 1000. The only one i could find is a Hyundai Excel X3. I have had my A15 running with this rad no probs so far(mind you the rad i have is blocked and leaking). I sourced a thermo fan off a mate, i have no idea what it is but fits in front of the rad beautifully.




You'll have to come down one day and see what ive done. Im in Wanneroo.

I'll get a brake kit organised

Plain discs and rubber hoses OK or you want slotted and braided ?

Got to go to work
Will read again and add more when I get home

out of an a15, 110hp should be easily available with an almost stock engine, just efi, elec dizzy, slight cam and thats about all. extractors and an exhaust.

on the way to danats, one of lags mates had a 1200ute with a12 on lpg, when his 200,000km plus a12 had direct lpg injection it made more than 120hp, but a bit less with just a normal mixer inlet.

From this, you should easily reach your target.

hmmm the options a piling up. which is a good thing. And i didnt even think of gas injection. Direct gas injection? Is this a straight gas setup or dual fuel?? You will have to excuse the ignorance with gas its all foreign to me.

A friend suggested a supercharger, but im not convinced thats its a good idea. Anyone had success with this?? In the end the cost is not the point, it just means that it takes longer to acheive the final result.

Quote:
Ahh Dman1k plain disks and rubbers hoses are fine at this stage. If i need slotted disks in the future ill sort it out then. All the parts from memory are off the shelf items bar the adaptor plate so thats fine.

going to send the gbox off next week to get a rebuild and if I can start pulling the old girl apart so that it can go to the panel beaters. Thats a start.
Quote:

Cheers for the invite, ill have to come up

And since there is now a simple lecky dizzy option now (e15 pulsar) ill try and sort that out too. Baby steps at this stage.

Cheers folks

If you chose to retain the 1000 radiator, then give it to a reputable radiator shop & ask them to pop the tanks off & have a good look at the core.

Most 1000 radiators have either had a replacement core by now, or are due for one. I have counted up the tube numbers & fin-per-inch count in a few of these & they vary a bit, but if you are up for a replacement core, then tell them you want the heaviest duty core that they can supply. The extra cost is a mere pittance, but the added security is worth it's weight in gold.

I had a new core made for mine with more tubes & fins, but sadly, there wasn't quite enough room for & third row of tubes. Never mind, I'm happy with it.

I also recomend a cheezecloth condom type of filter in the top tank fitting. Your new engine will undoubtably dislodge particles of gunk from the block & your nice clean radiator will filter out the lumps so that they don't end up in the block again.
A coolant filter will trap them before they end up in the radiator. I was amazed at how much gunk was in my filter about 5,000 miles after I had given the engine in my 1200 coupe a thorough flush out.