haha yet again i have more questions about front camber,
is it possible to drill out the lower control arm at the end that bolts to the car further towards the end to give it more camber, if so i would only drill it about 1cm or so. or could i drill the cross member out abit?
any help would be most appreciated

I bought some s13 adjustable strut tops but the were backward all the adjustment went the wrong way. So I made a aluminium plate drilled out the center for max camber. In the end it didn't procduce all that much so I got the lca drilled out by a suspension joint. He test drove it and said it produced a small amount of bump steer but I acheived nearly 3 degs of camber with the two combined.

I should have saved my money and drilled them myself but was unsure how much to drill.

Attach file:

---

  3deg.JPG (61.75 KB)


  strut tops.JPG (34.89 KB)


  lca.JPG (45.60 KB)

im not 100% sure about the top of my suspension, im taking it into a shop tomorrow or early next week hopefully so ill have a chat to the dudes there,
but that re drilled crossmember hasnt given you any trouble has it?
and how do you eliminate bump steer?

I have had no trouble with the redrilled cross member or the apparent bump steer. The ute handles extremly well. You can slightly offset the holes to help with the little bit of positive castor that you achieve by effectivly reducing the length of the castor rod.

Hi mate
I run 6 degrees negative camber on the front of my 1200 via a redrilled crossmember and custom camber plates.
If you decide to redrill the crossmember it would be a good idea to weld up the old holes and plate around the new ones to add some strength.
Personally I would start with camber plates and do the crossmember only if you can't get enough neg camber from the camber plates alone.
Matty

yeah i was also thinking of welding those holes up so the cops arent like oi whats going on here
im guessing by what i have seen, just get a piece of alloy plate (not sure on thickness please clairfy) cut it, or get it cut, round and then put it in place, mark out where the edge will be against top hole on the body and drill out a hole for the top of the strut and drill out the outside of the plate so i can put the mounting screws/bolts through.
i think thats about right, might take my shockies out tomorrow and have abit of a look see
thanks for the help

Hi mate
From memory the plates on my car are 2.5mm steel.
Ali will be a pain to weld.
Matty

ive got some offset tops forsale there off an imported sss datto not sure what tho, but bassically the 3 studs are offset to give more camber, its not going to give a huge amount of camber but better than normal plus you wont have any issues with cops with these http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.d ... ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT

idatto, what is the vehicle going to be used for, keep in mind normally ppl that run decent camber is okes with super hard front ends and racing wheels with very hard side walls.

In fact, the harder the front end, the less camber is needed.

Camber in my opinion is used to fully utilize the entire surface on a tire when cornering hard, the harder the cornering the more body-roll. Thus adding camber will ensure the whole tire surface is used.

idatto,as Racetech has asked why do you want camber?