Hey didnt want to start anything when i said that the coupe was the go....and i admit that UGLY was a bit over the top hey its a datto
and there all mint!!!
Im sure all of us have a soft spot for the project we are working on and think its worth the effort and time to bring them back to life

anyway does anyone know what ohmerage the fuel sender runs at .(1200 coupe)
I have to convert my LPG sender to run at the same range any ideas?????
cheers
Dave

Whoa there pardner! Are you telling us that you are putting Liquified Petroleum Gas on an FJ-20 engine in a 1200 or is this another car? I don't know why I'm questioning that
idea. Does LPG offer some advantage that I'm unaware of?

LPG is higher octane than the crap petrol we are now offered. LPG is cheaper , cleaner burning( good for passing sniffer tests) and more importantly can handle high compression
and or boost.

Yes i have fitted an LPG system to my datto.
Im still in the process of inventing it .
Most of it is fitted but have not got to the stage of starting it up
yet.
Im a licensed LPG fitter and do it every day as a job (mechanic by
trade).
LPG has a lot of advantages of petrol when used in a turbo
application.
I will put some pics up when im a bit closer to starting it up
cheers
Dave

mind if i ask what brand your set up is ? im trying to peice together enough bits to put lpg on my 1200 ute not for performance tho i want it to be THE cheapest little
car to run

The setup im using is a hybrid system using a century M6 converter with a modified atmosphere side (to take boost).I used the original FJ20 throttle body and machined a
gas venturi ring that slides inside it.
The metering is done with a century barrel valve which was adapted to the bottom of the throttle body which discharges thru to venturi ring.
like i said this is a hybrid system and there is a bit more involved in getting an idle and transition circuit to give the correct ratio from idle at atmos to high boost.
depends where you are on this planet as to what type of equipment is available .
Where you from Bob????
sorry to boar you all with gas dribble but after a lot of years of getting this together even im starting to get excited!!!
Cheers
Dave

im over the pond in oz ya seem to know your shit i havent fitted gas before im a mechanic by trade and havent realy gotten in to it tho just about every car i have runs on it i think the
old ute is just gunna get impco mixer and converter there cheap here tho gas keeps going up and not as many ppl are converting as there used to be what would you recomend for standard a14 ?
i just want it to be cheap to run well it allready is but will just be cheaper my mates old man runs a gas place here in town and deals in lots of second hand lpg stuff so i can get the
bits cheapish just have to put it together cant be to hard

Ok, another LPG question. How does LPG compare to gasoline (petrol) in terms of caloric value? I mean, which is going to make more power from similarly prepped engines? Are there
horsepower or torque gains to be had? After my previous post on this subject, I remembered the higher octane value argument. Isn't the LPG fuel tank monstrously heavy? I guess my
problem with the concept stems from the fact that I want modifications to make the car go faster and others out there want the car to go farther.

So it was more like four LPG questions. Sue me.

Here are some facts on LPG (Australian specs)

Calorific value---50 000 kj/kg(petrol around
47 000 kj/kg)
prefered a/f ratio 15.7:1
boiling point-- -42deg cel
relative density as compared to air--- 1.5
octane rating---- up to 110
prefered comp ratio 10.5:1
expansion ratio from liquid to vapour-- 270 times
spontaneous combustion occurs-- 430-440c
Here are the pros for lpg

cost saving in fuel used
cost saving in engine repair(less wear)
cleaner burning(less combustion chamber deposits)
reduced emissions--co,hc and lead
no pilferage of lpg
safer than petrol(if system is leak free)
smoother power from engine
easier starting (hot or cold)
As far as cylinders go, yes the carbon steel ones are quite heavy but there are still stainless steel ones around that
reduce the wait heaps.
more power with a turbo charged engine is achieved
thru being able to match the a/f ratio thru to high boost (up to 30+ lbs boost)without the aid of any electrics(computer
etc)
we have done it on several vehicles and stunned the guy at the dyno by recording very high horsepower outputs.
enough of the classroom hehehehe
cheers
Dave