ok im about to fit battery to boot
got a bat box, agm battery, cables

plan is to fit the pos from battery through cabin to the starter motor. have 4 other acces wires for thermo fan etc going to pos on battery (all though relays) and the fusible link.
was going to run these straight off the starter too.

my question is should i run a fuse/curcit breaker on the power to the starter? if so what amp?

was thiunking of running a keyed isolator switch too either in boot, cabin or even where stock battery tray is too. so if i go:

battery - curcuit breaker, isolator switch then starter would that work

or as im running fusible link stiff could i just go batt, starter and all off that?

could even go batt, isolator swich starter, and runn all the wires off isolator switch, before starter... that would include fusible link.

spoken to a few member who go battery, isolator starter , and run all their stuff off starter post.

cheers

something like this

Sounds like another unnessicary dogs breakfast. Your car will be worth more in scrap copper soon.

So straight to starter ?? Need to free up engine bay room for impco setup. Convertor needs to move lower for a start

which agm did you get in the end?

36ah it's 20cm x 14 x 16cm. 6mm holes on the posts and 4m of 35mm2 flexi battery cable... Nice thick copper

Most do not fit any fuse or circuit breaker. Although for racing i think it is required for a disconnect switch
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Pa ... tery-Disconnect-Switches/

You can move the normal lead-acid battery to the back, or an AGM lead-acid battery. Be sure to vent the battery box to the outside as even AGM can create a little hydrogen gas.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Br ... g-Battery-Relocation-Kits

Agm should only vent if something not right through a pop off valve.
I've seen the kits and put together all the stuff for half that

Read up on it. AGM will vent. Just not very much compare to regular battery. They use them in electric conversions too.

I'm part way through setting mine up in the ute, the battery is going under the tray behind the drivers seat, the positive cable will run to a 200amp circuit breaker (should be mounted close to the battery if one is use), then onto a keyed isolator which is mounted to the seat mount so I can reach it if needed. I also purchased a distribution block but haven't decided if I'll use that or just take the additional power supplies off the isolator. Power and earth then run to the starter motor.
I went with 1/0 gauge cable and mainly used audio gear. The grey and clear cables are the ones installed now, the red & black were damaged by a panel beater when the tunnel was welded up...

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