So the Wiki tells me that A series rod bolts are use-once. Are the rods designed for this so that you don't need to resize the big end at every rebuild?

Second Q, when I get the A15 block serviced, I want the rear hose pipe removed and the hole plugged. What is the best way to plug that hole?

I'm finally getting serious about this A15 rebuild and am gathering up all of the final parts and bits of info before I visit my favorite machine shop.

I want to clarify a couple of things:

When you say resize rod big ends on other cars have you machined or bored the rods? On A-series we simply just install new bearing shells, if the rod needs machining I've always just simple replaced them.
Rear hose pipe? Are we talking the block vent? If so that should not be plugged as on the GX manifold I believe that routes to the PCV valve.

Tom

Rods: When replacing rod bolts in say a Ford V8 the rod cap mating surfaces are machined and then the rod cap torqued in place and the rod big end diameter honed back to the correct nominal diameter. Resized. Use-once rod bolts are new to me and I assumed that I would not have to resize but wanted to confirm.

The pipe is a block vent. Did not pay attention to that when I tore the thing down. Yeah, I will want to keep using that. Thanks!

I thought Ford was one of the motors that the resizing was a common procedure; I've had a string of Ford tow vehicles, 65 Ford Galaxy, 68 F100, 74 F350 and the current 1990 E250 Camper Van but they get so little mileage that I usually drive them till the are near the end and then find another. Although two of them had fresh engines when I got them.

Rod bolts are available or you can go with ARP.

Tom

I resize when I upgrade rod bolts in the Fords, but only for that. For a stockish build it's not required if the rods check out as the bolts are reusable. I think that's normal with the usual old Ford stuff. I've never researched a modular engine.

I just ordered new Datsun bolts and nuts. When they get here I can gather my stuff and get it to the machine shop for the cleaning and the magnufluxing and the boring and the turning and the balancing etc.

I'm concerned about getting the compression ratio centered about 9.5:1, so the final decking of the block and surfacing of the head will be done after I mock up the crank and a couple of rod/pistons to check the deck clearance. A sample chamber in the H89 head measures 31ccs. The dish in one of the ITM pistons measures 12ccs. No question here just laying out the plan for the shortblock.

Got cartridge rolls coming in the mail so I can work on the ports. This build is finally rolling!

Remember that you can also order thinner head gaskets for the A-series engine, B-projects in Japan has them at .8mm thick. I can't remember if Nissan Motorsports still has them or if they are NLA. If you can actually find them there are pistons with a smaller dish, I think around 5-7cc, I tried to find a set but wasn't successful so I went to the JE ones.

Tom

No joy in Mudville.

Rod bolts: 12109-H1001

Any suggestions where to lay hands on a set of eight of new Nissan stock rod bolts in the States? So far I have cancelled two web store orders because of backorders with no ship date and the local dealer also came up empty.

If I have to go with ARP, will I have to resize the rods?

OK, nevermind. I ordered a set of ARP bolts and will have the rods resized. On to the next issue!

ARP rod bolts have more clamping force. Therefore the big end will change shape when torqued down, and must be resized to ensure optimum size and shape.