Ive been reding some posts recently saying that you can pretty simply, fit an l20b under a 1200s bonnet. Now up until reading these posts i never even considered this conversion, but its shapin up to be a more likely prospect as im searching for somethin more unique.

Does anyone have any specs on this motor? I forgot the link to that nissan engine power output site does anyone have that?

More importantly, what would be the deal with the gearbox, as i have a manual tunnel in my wagon? standard one wont fit eh? Which one will?

Also, these engines come in injected form eh? is the injected form the one that comes from the 200b with the front sump?

Cheers boys.

You know the Stumpy SKyline Box will fit.
Andrew made it fit on your old CA project. You won't need to change the gearbox bellhousing though. Any L Series box would fit. Maybe the L16/Stanza one would be the 2nd best fit?

The L20B is a bit of a pig in a 200B, but with weber/webers, and in a 1200, it would be cool.
Get a lightened flywheel (-10->20%) as flywheel weight is proportional to vehicle weight, for getting up hills.

Bonnet clearance could be an issue, as it can be in a 1600 if not mounted low enough. The L20B is about an inch taller than the L18.

The injected ones are much rarer. I've never seen one, but I know they exist.

I'd get a freshly reconditioned L20B, and buy some nice matched carbies and give it a go. Should be possible to get it going well for under $2000, but $3000 is more realistic, for a fresh engine.
$1000 for engine without intake/exhaust.
Get some Webers and extractors $800.
And $200 for a Tailshaft.

You might be able to get a worked L20B+gearbox with good carbies and extractors for $1200ish, if you snoop around on ozdat classified for long enough.

Will need custom mounts for engine and gearbox.

Will need an engineers certificate.

Chris

there's no EFI L20B at all.
there was an EFI L18 though, but good luck finding one.
you'll need a 180B (P610) crossmember, 120Y (B210) castor rods, 180B lower control arms, stanza /180B struts and either the 180B or the 120Y swaybar. that bit eludes me... oh and a 180B master cyl. this should all bolt up to the factory mountings and require no engineering at all.

as far as the gearbox goes, the manual tunnel and the auto tunnel are the same in 1200s, so you can use a TRX blulebird (910) 5 speed behind the L20 with a custom gearbox x-member adaptor plate - this is very very very easy to make.

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Sorry, you are wrong in saying that the auto and manual tunnels are the same in a 1200. They definitely aren't! I have parts books to prove they aren't. There is a noticable difference, About 1->2 inches wider up until the shifter hole.

I reckon its a great idea - but I might be a little bit biased... L20 is a great engine for a hot street 1200. Heaps of torque and power.

Quote:
unfortunately this is wrong too. The 180B x-member only fits 120Ys not 1200s (although it may work in some of the very late model utes when they changed the front end).
And even if that stuff did all bolt in, it would still require engineering.

L20 will fit under the bonnet no problem. I did my conversion with the L16 motor, and have since used L20s with no problems at all. But I did pay attention to mounting the motor as low and far back as possible.

Any L series 5spd will fit in the 1200 manual tunnel...with varying degrees of diffuculty...Easiest is the Stanza 5spd, which is a short box with dogleg pattern and its also a little narrower than the Skyline stumpy box. But even the long 5spds will fit in there - shifter position would be very different though! I originally used the Stanza 5spd, and now have the stumpy Skyline 5spd

I have a complete fully reco'd low K L20 motor (+.040") with big port, big valve head, twin Hitachi SUs polished with custom heat sheild, ram tubes and socks, 72 cam, and new clutch, that I'd sell for $1000 ono. I think its missing the water pump though - I used it on my race engine when it failed. Getting it to Sydney might be awkward though...

5spd gearboxes go for about $250.

Thanks heaps guys. Im seriously considering this engine, i always like seeing different things so i might as well head down this path.

cheers boys.

L18_B110 i sent you pm.

Forgot to ask, depending on box choice i might also need to convert tpo hydraulic clutch right? or isnt this necessary?

thanks for clearing that up L18_B110. i have seen a 180B crossmember under a 1200 ute, so i thought it was applicable to all 1200s (as you would)...

in that case i believe a P510 'member would go under with no dramas then...?

pro-240c, not sure wether you mean for the late model utes or the early model 1200s? But unfortunately there's no bolt-in x-member to suit L series into Datsun 1200 sedans/coupes/wagons/early utes. Well, not in Aus anyway. The Sunny Excellent was released with L14 in Japan, but I don't think anyone else in the world got them.

mikali, you're right, all L series use hydraulic clutch.