has any one had any experience with homemade or bought water injection

Not personally - not yet anyway. I have the boost cooler kits arriving this week (they are clearing customs as we speak) and then I will start installing one into the Sunny as early as next week.

I'll be reporting back on the results as soon as we get it n the dyno and tuned.

let us know what engine and details etc

like is it turbo or non turbo......me and some mates have mucked around heaps with water injection

Boost cooler kits??? Please elaborate on this

thanks

Damo

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please elaborate on this, mainly regarding results as ive read the theory

have read articles but never heard the voice of experience, tell the story, mainly for turbo motors as it surely has much greater benefits for turbo setups?

Yes, I'd like to hear more about what sort of results people have got out of water injection.
I've heard people banging on about this for years & the general concensus seems to be that a good intercooler will negate any advantage gained by water injection, but I'm yet to come across anyone who has actually done it.

the 1200 2 door sedan running at wsid with the turbo sr20de runs water injection instead of an intercooler.really metho injection,but water injection always used some sort of fuel,
like rubbing alcohol,or methonal.it does the trick,because when it stopped working,so do the engine.

Demo.... Have a look at my website www.full-throttle.com.au and follow the links to the Boost Cooler products. Product info, pricing ans some FAQ's are there.

Coops - a good intercooler is going to be about 60% efficient (from what I have read) and that assumes that you use a good core to start with with properly designed end tanks etc. In most applications up to around 20psi, water injection can be used in place of intercoolers. There is also zero pressure drop with water injection.

Ideally, you could use both water injection and intercooling - that's what I am doing, and that is also what most of the top rally teams around the world do.

In most cases people mix the water with methanol or some other "fuel". This has a couple of benefits -

1. Methanol has quite a high octane rating (I read around 120?) so adding fuel to the fire is going to give you a bigger bang.

2. By adding Methanol etc you can actually start the injection process a little earlier. When using water only, you have to make sure your not putting the fire out. Generally, with water only, you start injection around 2psi higher than with a water/methanol mix.

When "playing" with water injection you need to keep a couple of things in mind.

a) Use a high pressure pump. The key is atomisation, so by using a higher pressure pump you get better atomisation. You can actually inject more water through a smaller nozzle giving better atomisation than a lower pressure pump using a larger nozzle. The more atomisation, the more water surface area is available for soaking the heat out of the air, and also it will evaporate faster - well before it hits the cylinder.

The boost cooler kits come with a 140PSI pump with an optional 220psi pump for big Horsepower applications.

b) use correctly designed and sized Nozzles - again for good atomisation.

c) Use parts which will not corrode with the use of methanol - Methanol is highly corrosive so make sure your system can handle it.

The ultimate idea is to cool the charge air as much as possible. This allows you to run more timing and/or more boost without detonation = more Power.

If your tutrbo car performs better on a cold night - then it will perform better with water injection. Factory cars get good gains too, as the factory ECU's retard timing as soon as they detect detonation. Water injection keeps detonation at bay - for longer.

A little more info for those fussy tuners out there.
You can probably run a little more advance and be able to get the most out of H2O inj and Metholated spirits is a fair substitute for Methanol as it still chills the air charge for those on a budget.
Other advantages are that a little H20 tends to keep the carbon build up in the cumbustion chamber to a minimum.
H20 systems show effective benifets on NA performance engines and even more benifets on turbo set ups.
For those with EFI and quality ECU's there is a huge advantage because you have the ability to MAP the H20 injection through a metering solenoid valve. That way you can MAP the injection rate just like a normal fuel injector.
This is something I have been playing around with on my NA rally motor, in theory it should be injecting varying amounts of H20 based on TPI and injector pulse width and load applied. The scope is endless, it all depends on how much time and effort you want to put into it. Same old story - you only get out what you put into it.
Regarding some group N rally cars - Subaru have their intercooler mounted on top of the engine (not ideal) so they run a very simple (read reliable) water injection system that sprays water directly onto the intercooler core, its a compromise but also works well to help cool the charge.

All of the budget turbo gombos ive played with have ended up with some kind water/methanol spray.usually allows for a bit more boost so obviously has an advantage. ours have been pretty basic deals so would imagine that a high pressure injection thats atomised would be an advantage.especially with lpg. we used a Whale pump (like caravan/boat systems use) and turned it on with a hobbs switch set at 11 lb .. My dream is refrigerated intercooling, ive seen a few designs on this and looks like where i will be going with my coupe.runs like a liquid to air intercooler but with refrigerated air ...