Hey guys, i got told today that a way to stop axel tramp is to get the main leaf out of another dato and put it upside down on top of the other leafs. He says he guarantees that it will never axel tramp again? Has anybody heard of this and if so have they done it and does it work?
Thanks guys

Just get a pair of JTS springs youll never worry about it again

I am with converted, go to Pedders at Penrith,but I have heard of the other thing, dont know if it works.

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he's got half an idea, which is probably worse than having no idea at all when it comes to giving advice. A reversed half leaf on top of the front half of the leaf packs is PART of the solution. But it will alter your ride height and increase spring rate. Best left to someone who knows what they are doing.

But first check that your shocks are in good condition and replace them if they are ordinary. Same goes for the leaf eye bushes. Both of these can cause tramp.

You don't have lowering blocks, do you?

Do some research on pinion angle and check yours, changing mine got rid of my axle tramp.

Edit: After I changed all of the suspension and shocky rubbers I still had axle tramp and then I changed the pinion angle.

Nice quote from Smokey Yunic Dodgeman, I like that one.

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We don't always see things the same way, but I couldn't agree more. There have been a number of threads on this subject, but no-one seems to have asked 'Just exactly what is axle tramp anyway?' What dynamics are taking place when it happens? What areas need to be addressed to control this phenomina.
What happens then is that we see half baked solutions from people that don't really know what they are talking about, but I always remember an old addage from that legendary engine builder Smokey Yunic who said.

"ALWAYS bring your variables under control"

That means make sure that you have good shocks, good spring eye bushes & shackles. How are the U bolts & any rubber parts between the axle & spring? How are the springs themselves? Do they need slider buttons, & how about the spring clips, are they as tight as they should be?

When everything is in good mechanical shape, it's then that we should look to the next step [if necessary] & that often means talking to someone [a professional?] who actually does know what he's doing.

Actually, asking about the dynamics of axle tramp is worth a thread of it's own.

Below is a pic of whats happening during axle tramping and the bottom pic is a prehistoric method used to control it.

A common way to solving mechanical problems is to think of things in a simple manner. What happens when you get "axle tramp"? The diff is jumping up and down inside the car at a horrifying speed and usually destroys things. This is caused by a lack of shock control. You will find that by simply putting some better shocks in will fix the probelm. The pic supplied by phunkdoktaspok is also a true indication of what happens also. Not really need in these little cars though, more so needed in big old cars like GT Falcon etc with large tyres and big HP. A set of gas shocks should be a cheap fix for the problem. You can increase spring rate but that will also effect power down if you car has reasonable HP.

Well he used to be a racecar engineer, so i would usually listen to what ideas he has. The pic that phunk used is exactly how he explains it. with putting the extra leaf on top will elimate the suspensions being able to make the "curl" in the spring. It will push back down on each end of the spring at the same time, stopping it from bending like it does. Also a set of 90/10 shocks would also help, because these are apparantly soft, making the back sit down and sick and the front lifting up, transferring the weight to the back. So i will give this a good and let you all know how it goes. As for the lowering block, no I don't, the suspension has been reset to the right ride height.

have a look at the competition suspension download on the home page. I have set up my rear just like it and I have big slicks some power and no axle tramp and I DO have lowering blocks.
olboy