I finally got my intermittent ignition problem sorted out and my car was running great. I get it back from a nice test drive and very pleased it's finally running great again.

I button a few things up and try to start it. It cranks over and fires, and as soon as I let go of the starter, the motor dies. If I turn the ignition on and check for voltage at the + terminal at the coil, there is none, however when I hit the starter position on the switch, the motor will fire right up and dies as soon as I let go of the starter position.

Is it possible that the IG or RUN portion of my ignition switch is bad? Because the START, IGN, and RESISTOR are all engaged when the starter position is used, I'm thinking I may have a funky switch as it is dies as soon as it is in the RUN position.

I need to get a helper to check this, but does this seem possible that the one position on the switch might have gone bad?

Also, My 1200 is a '72 (if that matters) and to undo the switch assembly from the column, there are two screws and two other things that resemble screws holding it to the column. Is there a special tool to extract those screws? I assume it was a rude security device to stop theives?

Thanks again!

Mark

Ballast resistor son, under the bonnet.

Temporarily bypass the ballast resistor(white ceramic thing near coil), see how you go. If this works, you can either grab a 12v coil or another ballast resisitor.

I've replaced the ignition system with one that doesn't use the ballast resistor, so that's been bypassed already. (I should have mentioned that)

I am using the Pertronix ignition system and their 3.0 ohm coil which doesn't need the ballast resistor.

I also see that the manual says you have to drill out the bolts in the column to remove them. (arrghhh)
They call them shear head bolts. Silly idea.

If you have a dremel tool you can slot the sheer bolts and unscrew them

If i'm not mistaken there should be two small screws on the back of the ign. switch. back the two screws out and unplug the switch. the switch is attached to the back of the key cylender.

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I don't have anything that small, unfortunately. I have enough big stuff to cut up a car, though!

I just went out and was able to get a test light wedged onto the positive side of the coil and sure enough, it lights up when the starter is engaged and goes out when the switch is returned to the run position. I suppose I could further test that by testing the BR wire, then the BW wire separately.

I'm not 100% sure, but it sure looks like the RUN portion of the ignition switch is not working.

That's one I have never run into before....