Hi there, I was just wondering about this and cant seem to find it in the Shop Manual so i thought i would try here.
My E Brake has never worked, when i pull up the handle the car will continue to roll backwards. I took a trip under the car and saw that the E break cable could be tighted by tighting 2 nuts. After tightening these 2 nuts I pulled on the handle again to find that the car now no longer rolls.

My question is, Since the cable has been tightend and the hand brake is in the release posistion, the E brake mechanism near the drums are not in full release posistion becasue of the tightend cable. Haveing said that, will that throw off my Rear and Front breaking? (becasue the rear is alerdy tensiond abit by the handbrake)

Sry if this is confusing to read =(

usually, the rear brake adjustment will decrease the amount of travel of the hand brake, if it is adj. properly. 1st, loosen cable you just tightened, adjust your rear brakes, make sure all cables, linkages, and pivots are free and not binding, then check cable adjustment. I feel if you have to have the rears dragging to make the handbrake work, something else is not right. (like streched cable, poor adj. of shoes, worn shoes etc.etc.)

Sorry to jump in, but I also have an e brake Q.
My handle will set fine and then just pop loose to the floor with the slightest bump. Like when I shut the door after getting out!
Do I need to look at the handle area or underneath?
Thanks anyone.

the little teeth on the part of the brake that is bolted to the floor sound worn, either that or the catch in the handle is worn too. you can visually inspect the first without dismantling anything. it would have nothing to do with anything under the car

If you are using the original B10 rear end & brakes, & I think you are, then it seems to me that the rear wheel cylinders have siezed.
Siezed to the backing plate that is.

The wheel cylinder is designed to move a little in a slot in the backing plate so as to centralise & to apply even pressure to both brake shoes.

You will probably need to strip the brake down to fix it properly, so undo the brake cables, & with a proper 10mm flare nut spanner, remove the brake tube. Next, remove the rubber boot that covers the external parts of the wheel cylinder, study the parts carefully & you will see how to remove the spring retainers & adjusting plates. Remove these & the wheel cylinder can be removed, assuming that you have also removed the brake shoes beforehand. Once these are out, the whole cylinder can be removed from the backing plate & you can clean all the parts with a wire buff if you are carefull. Then reassemble using a little anti sieze lubricant, & check for full & free movement.

While it's apart, you may as well remove the brake adjusting 'wedge bolt' It comes out on the brake side of the plate. Clean all parts & again, use a little anti sieze lubricant, then refit. Reassemble everything, adjust & bleed brakes properly. Make sure that the handbrake cable is slack when doing all this.

Once you have everything right, then [& only then] you should be able to get a proper adjustment on the handbrake. You may find that the brakes settle in a little after a drive round the block, so you may want to fine tune the adjustment after a day or two. Always adjust the wheel brakes first, & make sure that the handbrake cable has some slack when doing it, then do the cable adjustment last. Everything will be fine then.

Hopefully, this has been of some help.
If you don't have a workshop manual for your B10, but want one, drop me a line.

As a matter of interest, according to my parts book, left drive B10's have a floor mounted handbrake, the same as the KB10 does, while right drive B10's have an underdash brake handle. If handbrake cables can be sourced in a left drive country, then KB10 owners have a source for these parts.

Thank you all very much for the infomation, I will have a look today. Thanks

There's plenty of LHD B10's in Scandinavia so I'd think if anyone was stuck for coupe e-brake bits that's be the place to get them.
Curiously my '69 RHD sedan has a floor mounted lever

-Ed

That service manual photo looks exactly like the rear brakes of a 1200, so perhaps parts will not be so difficult to find.

The 1200's drum brakes, front & rear ARE B10 brakes, simply carried over into the new model. I suspect that the B210/ 120Y rears are the same too. [except for Aussie built sedans from July '76]