hi all,
just wondering if we could have a few options for diffs to suit 1200 ute. i know there are kits out there but i want to keep things cheapish as i dont have much power and small amount of money to spend.

i have been told you can use blue bird diffs but i want to know about set ups and info on what people have done and how hard it is.

also info on the U bolt plates on top of the rear axle. are these welded on or just sit there once the u bolts are tightened. as im currently missing one.

i know this has probably been covered heaps before but im new to the site. please forgive me :) thankyou all in advance.

how much is not much power, as not much power shouldnt really bother a ute diff (h165)

first of all whats wrong with the ute diff you have? the h165 ute diff is quite strong and reliable being able to withstand up to about 125 kwatw. i would recomend keeping the one you have and spend you money on other upgrades.... but if you do want to fork out the cash usually about $1000 you can upgrade to somthing like the r31 diff or the commodore diff even a vannette diff. have a look thru the tech section as its very helpful

edit: you beat me to it

Pretty sure that the h165 is from 1975 and newer utes, so he may have a broken h145...

frank doesnt matter how much hp you have you could have 2546758767 hp and 20 ftlb of torque and it wouldnt bother the diff
but if you had 20hp and 275646473 ftlb of torque and it would munch the diff like you wouldnt believe

the later model utes came out with the H165, they're the same diff centre as out of a Bluebird but the housing is shorter, Depending on what engine you're running, i assume that its an A series, the stock diff will do the job unless you do burnouts all the time! I had a H165(ute diff) in my coupe that had a CA18DET it held up fine, even though it was an open centre.

Unless your talking about an LSD, that a different story.

thanks for all the heads up. it is in my 84 ute. i have a serious shudder above 80km/h and i origanlly thought it was the wheels till i popped it out of gear to listen and the shudder became worse and when i went to select 4th again it wouldnt go in. i was thinking of getting a LSD in the rear axle i have to getting it looked at but they will charge me the same as it would cost for a R31 diff from Mad Dat. :(

search for topgear lsd's on the site and he has them for your diff they cost just over a $1000?

sure its not the gearbox? as the diff shouldnt affect wether or not it goes into gear

maybe jst pull the diff apart and have a look at it first before you decide that its no good

If your geting a "serious shudder" at speed it may be your tail shaft out of balance or a uni joint is naked? and eaven though you poped it out of gear it could still be wheel balance?