Here is my version of a cheap way to get camber and castor.
Photo
Photo
It is temporarily installed, still need to finish the cut out in the Strut Tower. Also incorporated is the holes for the strut brace.

This is all part of a coil over conversion. Once I can afford the threaded tubes, springs and the new shocks, I'll do the conversion and bolt these in permanently.

The CAD Drawings is available to Datsun1200 fans. Note: These plates do not shine and look pretty, they have one goal, Camber and Castor adjustment between races. Only recommended to race vehicles.

Notes:

Plates are made of 5mm Mild Steel
Uses 2 of the original 3 bolt holes. 2 more need to be drilled.
Camber / Castor can be adjusted to Factory spec if the vehicles is driven to the track or used on the road.
Original Bearing is used.
A M12 x 1.25 pitch Rose Joint/Rod End is used, in SA our shocks thread is M12 x 1.25 pitch, maybe yours differ.

Original Springs:
Photos in the picture show the original bearing, spring and retainer plate.
Camber adjustment will be limited to the size of the coil spring diameter. It hits the side of the Strut Tower.

Coilover Conversion:
The original bearing will be used and the rose joint and the new retaining plate that comes with the threaded tubes. This will enable me to get more camber/castor due to the smaller diameter of the springs, more room before hitting the strut tower.

The one thing I did notice, if I lower the ute, the shocks will bottom out, even with 14" semi slicks on. Busy with Monroe SA to get my hands on a set of Golf MK1/Rabbit inserts, only issue is: VW SA changed the Rabbits inserts to sealed strut assemblies. So these inserts are very scares. Other option will be KYB inserts, again, a nightmare to get in SA.

Why do we need to struggle to get technical info on products, asking me for what vehicle it is and sourcing it does not help, I need info like tube diameter, type, length extended/compressed?

I'll keep you updated on the progress of this little mini project.

Attach file:

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  Camber-Castor Plate280.jpg (67.97 KB)


  Shock Assembly280.jpg (49.74 KB)

i'd go high tensile on that threaded bar coz it might bend with some punishment

Trial and error will sort it out, going to test it out with stainless bolts, if that does not hold up, I'll make a set of reinforced bolt thingies on the lathe.

dont use stainless because they can be brittle and will bend a little and snap

That looks really good, simplifying the problem so industrial bits can be used. If I were making it I'd shape the base to get to that other bolt hole, and have a second ring under the strut tower so the panel is sandwiched. But that's just me.

In the picture you can see the 3rd hole, but it will be destroyed when I have all the parts and do the final cut out. I'm after max castor and will play around with camber, need to use the full surface of the semi slicks.

I'm going to use some nice fat and wide washers at the bottom as there are already a double plate for strength.

The track racers normally only want camber and can move the plates around to utilize only the original holes.

If there are interest, I'll even change the CAD drawings for this purpose.

Hey mate do you hav a pic of the top of the strut how it mounts and the top spring retainer and whatnot?

In the beginning post of this thread there are to links.

I'll add the pic to it.

Excellent. Haven't seen this solution before and have not seen any set up which allows both camber and castor adjustment.

Have you come up with ideas on how to ensure the rose joint can't undo itself from the top of the insert/rod? Loctite + Lock-nut maybe I guess. I know the bearing on top of the spring hat will help negate this but I expect there will still be a tendancy for it to try to work itself loose which would be a worry at speed.

The configuration is great, the whole sliding plate and 4-6 Allen caps that needs to be undone and done again just does not make sense to me. Great option if you take it to someone that does the alignment and you are done. I'm not after something that can earn you braging rights, I want something practical, adjustable and easy to operate.
If you need to change these stuff on a hourly basis to gain the correct setup for a gymkhana or race, this is the way I think is the easiest.

Currently it is only a trial fitment.

The loctite + locknut is the option.

When I can afford the conversion parts this will be the way to go.
Adding a nut to it know adds another 10mm of lift. The rose joint adds already about 18mm.