iv got a L20B that im putting in2 my 1200 ute and are about 2 rebuild the engine can any1 give me afew tips on how 2 get th hp up there i want 150hp plus

Build a turbo setup easy 150 from that! Could even buy a setup on ozdat/datnet/or here for good money and build a motor to suit, depends on how much u want to spend, also a member beige I think he's name is, might be able to help with motor parts

150 at the engine or at the wheels

getting that at the wheels will cost a decent amount of money if its NA. the engine i had was an L18 2L stroker and it made 130hp at the wheels. it originally cost around $7000 to build im prety sure

turbo would be much easier to get the power, and probably cheaper depending on how good you are at building stuff

why do you need 150+?

You should go for 175HP

150 flywheel HP is easy to do with a 2 liter. If I remember correctly, just use the peanut head, twin weber DCOE, cast iron exhaust manifold and 2.5" exhaust. The L20B already has the good cam same as the 1600 SSS motors.

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Send it to Stewart Wilins Motorsport and give him a fistful of cash.

Forced induction ftw!

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mine had a decent amount of port work, a cam styled off the 72degree works cam. twin 45s and extractors that would have flowed alot better than any cast manifold

the most power ive heard out of an L series is about 120kw, compared to my 95kw, and that was with a stupid amount of head work and injection. by stupid amount of head work i mean actually moving the position of the valves and stuff like that
for the money to get that engine alone built you could have a fully forged CA in the car engineered with double the power

but simple answer to the question is like others have said. turbo it

On top of the rebuild and I gather you are looking at a non pollution setup?

A. For 150hp atw boost will cost you a 3rd of NA.
B. For 150hp ate boost will cost about 1/2 of NA.

150hp atw

For boost youll need a good T28-T30 with SU Suck through setup with custom manifolds
price 2K plus tuning

For NA youll need 8-10k inc. tuning
For NA option 2 Mild ported KA24e head with prepped rods, forged custom pistons and American GT racing class billet camshaft (only one needed) or Jim Wolf billet. Tuned length exhaust and extrude honed manifold with bigger throttle body or quad throttle bodied setup.

150hp ate
For Boost same as "A" just run less boost or supercharge it instead

For NA mostly same as above with maybe a saving of 20-30% due to less extreme work
For NA option 2 SR20DE with better exhaust or no pollution KA20e head conversion with high comp pistons and Jim wolf GT class camshaft)

Although the L20b block is taller for better rod stroke ratio you best use an L18 block with l20b crank will give you 20mm more bonnet clearance and instead use longer rods and shorter pistons off the shelf, no need for aftermarket.

Ka24e head gives you another 12-15mm bonnet clearance but will need custom pistons to get the 3 valve hemi like head to have enough squish. You just have to look at what American Nissan racers are achieving with the ka24e engines, quite amazing output.

I have two types of L cam lying around, the V91 and the U67 plus a crap L18 I suspect was from a 620 plodding me Bluey along at the moment. Which of those is preferable for a budget build. The V91 will be treated to a beefier rebuild in due time but for the other block it'd be nice to use some of that Datsun ingenuity

Can be done - my coupe with L20 had 158Hp at wheels on a conservative dyno.
Step 1 - buy my cylinder head from this motor. 78 deg cam, Datrats adjustable gear, big valves, ported and set up by Cave Hill in Melb - even Errol is impressed with it!
Step 2 - BIG bore, flat top pistons (teflon coated skirts etc)light flywheel etc.
Step 3 - buy my old 45 webers from the guy in QLD selling them on Ozdat. They are mached out and set up for the above head!
Step 4 - have plenty of cash!
It can be done but beware outrageous claims - my 150 Hp engine could pass blokes who said they had 175 - it's all about the torque really ....
Cheers.