As the title states, my car stalls when I slow down to come to a stop, once it has stalled I can start it up again and it will idle perfectly.

When my car stalls, it will happen every time i slow down then press my clutch in, allowing the car to idle. (Or in my case, stall)

Other times my car will run perfectly.

I suspect the carburetor or adjustment of the carburetor, but could be way off.
So I am asking for suggestions for possible causes.

Am i justified in suspecting the carburetor as a possible suspect? and if so...
is starting fresh right from the start a better plan than buying a basic rebuild kit?

I have been looking on eBay at the Hitachi knock offs?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-1200-Sunny-120y-Carburettor-NEW-a12-a14-a15-/321294355632?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4acea2ccb0

Are these more trouble than they are worth? or are they ok?

I have been quoted $350 for a full rebuild/chemical clean of my genuine carby as another option i am considering.

I can't seem to adjust it out with the idle speed screw/mixture screw to create a reliable idle over multiple drives.

Please help, Ash.

Those knock off carbies are fine, i ran one for about a year with no issues. Id be checking your points and timing.
Check for a vacuum leak also.

Cheers.

does happen as often when the motor is cold with the choke on ?

I set the timing, replaced the points and set the gap on the points. as per the A10/A12 service manual.

Replaced vaccum hoses, fuel hoses, Battery, ignition leads, plugs, engine oil, fuel filter, air filter, drained fuel tank, drained fuel bowl in carb. all maybe 150-200km ago as I have only recently got the car on the road after 2 years sitting in the shed.

Thank you for verifying the knock offs as being something I can consider if i decide to replace the carb.

Ash.

happens without choke after long drives, up to an hours drive is the longest i have tested so far.

I don't drive until the car runs without any choke.

Plus because im paranoid about it stalling on me i'm currently running idle at 1000rpm. (not overly happy about that fact)
Idle will sometimes drop out to 600 rpm.

The reason i asked about the choke is its one way of finding out if it requires more fuel if the stalling improves with a slight amount of choke then you need to richen a/f ..vacume leaks can also be gasket's spray around the carby and manifold listen out for idle changes also check your vacume advance isnt leaking as this will effect the engines performance with spark..

Ash I have an electronic ignition kit for you here. PM me your new address. I suspect it will not resove your problem, however the offer is there if you need it and I owe you a few freebies anyway.

Thanks Chris. I have been meaning to get one of those kits.
So it is very much appreciated.
I'll pm you my address.

Anths, thanks for the ideas.
I'll try these over the next few days.
The vaccum advance is something i would have never thought to look at.

Ash.

Sent this morning, regular post, might take a week or two depending on how lazy PNG post is this month......

Cheers

stalls at light is usually an air leak.

Most often caused by a bad hose or a bad diaphragm. Not usually caused by the carburetor.

Idling at 1000 from won't hurt the engine. Just not as quiet as could be.