Instead of filling up the forum with a million separate questions, I decided to start a thread (which I also find to be more interesting to the people who know more than I do and, in turn, tend to be more responsive).

Here it goes, I have an A12 engine and transmission in my 1964 MG Midget that I am currently restoring (here is the thread on the restoration 1964 MG Restoration). I know next to nothing about Datsuns which is why I have come here.

I ran a compression test (mildly warm) which returned: 125, 115, 115, 112. Probably need rings.
What other areas should I be checking for wear? (end play and such?)
I'm going to install a complete clutch kit: PP, disk, through out bearing. How hard is it to install a new main transmission seal and rear engine seal?
As if jumping into a completely unfamiliar engine wasn't enough, I plan on having the manifold modified to accept two British SU carburetors. Wish me luck...

OK, why can I not post pictures from my computer? I'll click upload and it will load for about 3 minutes then stop loading as if I hadn't even tried to upload a picture. The pictures I posted are from my other thread.

1. If the file is more the 200,000 bytes, it will fail the upload.
or
2. If the photo is bigger than 1280 x 1280 pixels the upload will fail.

You can use Windows or Mac to resize the photos if needed

Hmmm ... linking the photo from mgexp also fails ...



But uploading it works

Attach file:

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  IMG_0310.JPG (50.12 KB)

I'm currently in the process of building an intake manifold to put two SU HS4's on an A14 for my Triumph. I'd be interested in seeing your progress on this.

While I'm at it: how well does the A12 fit? Stock pan? No hard conflicts that require cutting the frame? I have a friend with a Midget and a broken crank, and I have a couple of spare datsun engines and a 4 speed transmission: maybe I can get her back on the road quickly.

Quote:For sure it needs new rings


Quote:The only other common area of wear is the valve guides. End play wear is rare in a Datsun A-series. But still, you should check all the items listed in the repair manual. Use a Chiltons, Clymer or Datsun factory manual. Only $20 on amazon.com or $10 at half-price books (e.g. a Datsun 210 manual). See FSM

Even though the bearings may still be OK, spend $5 on plastigage and measure the bearing clearance.




Quote:Easier than doing the same for an MG engine. Any repair manual covers this. You can get any B110, B210 or B310 repair manual and it will cover the Datsun A-series engine.

Quote:Have you considered buying a new one? Even the Datsun factory manifold will accept two genuine S.U. carburetors. Carburetors.com also sell a twin SU manifold.

btw here's the part numbers for the rear engine seal: http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawi ... php?title=Crankshaft_Seal
There are a bunch of scanned pdf's for the datsun 1200 and datsun b210 online that'll talk you through the rear seal replacement, although it may just be the rear seal on the pan that's shot. Likewise they also talk you through the significantly more intimidating process of rebuilding the 4 speed 56-series trans, or just disassembling it enough to replace the front seal. (You'll want the datsun 1200 manuals specifically, for the transmission repair instructions.)

I've never seen a Datsun A-series transmission front seal leak, however the rear seal often does