Hi to all.
I would like to find out if anybody have had similar problems and how did you solve it.
My Datsun 1200GX has the problem that the front wheels is losing tread more on the outside of the wheels than the middle or inside.
When I last had my wheel alignment checked, the guy said that he cannot correct it.It is something to do with the front suspention.
I cannot remember the specific suspention part he mentioned that was out or incorrect.
I now have 185/60 R13 that cost way much more than my 12 inchers that I had on before.
I do not want to lose them due to stupid wear.
Can anyone give me a solution.
My brother-in-law-to-be is a panelbeater and he said they have equipment that measure everything and they can fix this problem by bending the shockabsorber outwards to bring the wheel to the correct level.
I feel it will damage the shockabsorber.
He said they have done it to many cars.

you either have a problem with the front tires toeing in, which means the steering arms need to be wound in, or you have a camber problem, which means the distance between the wheels are closer at the top than at the bottom, to remedy this some people bend the strut. Sometimes people have fitted a sunny bottom ball joint which is longer, check this isn't the case. or you may need to fit a camber kit to your top support.

I remember fitting a camber kit to my ute. This kit was for the bottom suspension arm & basicly consisted of a new pivot pin for the inner mount with an eccentric adjustment feature that moved the lower arm in or out.
I don't know it these are still available or not, but it's worth asking.

Mate ..you are a real "worry'er".

You worry about stuff, yet don't remember when experts tell you what's wrong.

Goto another suspension specialist, and have them tell you if the toe in/out, castor or camber is buggered. I suspect that the problem is probably related to a previous owner hitting a gutter or pothole, and bending out of shape the castor rod (radius rod) or front bracket holding it to the body..
Measure the wheel base from centre to centre on both sides, and tell me if they differ. Sometimes using washers can help, but most of the time, using a oxy/acetylene torch for heat and a big slide hammer is the only fix. But you'll need to pull the suspension apart on one side.

Get the measurement for the wheelbase side to side.

I doubt that a camber problem is the cause, but with 1200s "wimpy" front suspension, anything is possible.

Could also be a "bent strut", this sounds like what your bro-in-law is saying..I'd replace it..rather than rebend it. Especially if you are using heat, and have expensive strut inserts. Get some late model Bakkie struts from someone who's had a big side or rear impact accident.

Chris

dattodude

Yes. I know that I am a worry'er.
But my datsun I want to get 100% or at least 95% right.
My 185/60 R13 cost me double what I pay for one 12 incher and I do not want to lose them just because I was lazy in fixing a stupid problem.
I know I have posted alot of small things that I want solutions for, but I am that kind of person that if something is not right it must be corrected.
Dodgeman, of course, knows about this.
I have send him many mails about stuff that worried me and I wanted answers for.
He always patiently answered me back and I thank him for it.
Actually I thank everyone here for answering my worry'ing questions everytime.
But is'nt it what this site is about?
Asking questions and then getting answers?
Remember, we are driving cars who's creators have maybe long passed away.

Yes, I'd like to know as well -- is "bending the struts" good or bad, or does it depend on how competent the shop doing the work is?

A good toe-in adjustment and castor-rod adjustment always made the tires wear correctly on my 1200.

I still have the original struts (not inserts).

i've been told by pedders over here you can get up to 1.5deg extra camber by having the the strut housing bent. it's not something to try yourself and it's not cheap. no change should need to be made to the shocker insert otherwise the insides won't travel correct

When I worked at the Toyota Dearship many years ago we would do a strut pull. There is a tool that bolts to the hub via lug nuts and then a hydraulic ram clamps to the strut. This bends the strut outward at the bottom - negative camber. also you can notch the stud holes in the strut tower. It sounds like something is worn - check all the suspension componets you either have way to much toe in or positive camber.

Tom