what type of suspension should i shove in? i herd spring overs are a little to bouncy so he convinced me to get straight up ilstein shocks are those ok or is there somthing even better???

whadaya planning on using the car for dude?

Generally just some decent shocks (level of decency directly related to price), some stiffer springs in the front (say 30% stiffer) and dropping the ride height by an inch works wonders in a 1200...

itll be on the street most of the time , but i have some pretty windy roads around here so it would be sick to have a decent suspension since the owner b fore the person i bought it from cut the springs so i want a stiff suspension but not super stiff

I agree, decent shocks would give the the best improvement without any mods

new shocks all round and b210 front swaybar (swaps straight over), is the easiet and very effective upgrade

Cutting coil springs for street use is for losers, & if i remember rightly, it's illegal over here.
You should be able to get some real stiff springs & make it rocket round those bends like nothing else, but you would not want to live with it on anything but a dead smooth road.

If you follow the advice offered up by tsillay & 1200rallycar, you will be right on track, but get new [or used] springs that have been made for the job.
I liike Koni shocks myself. You will find that, if they are still available, they should not be too outragously priced, & if you get the adjustable ones, you can fine tune your suspension to suit your style, or the type of motoring that you will be doing on any particular day.
You know, set them soft to pleasure the little woman on a Friday night, then set them stiff for that hot lap down, or up, Mulholland in LA[?] early sunday morning.

Quote:

Did you mean only losers would cut springs for street use in Australia? I understand it's illegal in AU, but technically it's not a bad idea if done right, and is fairly well respected in the USA (where it is not illegal).

well since mine r done incorrectly it handles like S#!* i have herd of people doing it correctly but i just dont trust them even if done rite because i have had bad experiences with cut coils...

Springs are supposed to be "bouncy", whether stock, coilovers, or whatever. It's the shocks (or struts) that keep them under control. So the Bilsteins might be just what you need.

ddgonzal
The more you sut from a coil, the stiffer it becomes. Do you know what the spring "rate" is of a 1200 coil when cut, say, 2"
Additionally, i have found that in some applications, the coil is wound to a flat base at both ends. My 1200 workshop manual shows that these are sorta flat, & the spring seat is shaped to fully suport the spring all round. If you cut a full coil off, it's the end of the "wire" that the coil is made from that sits on the seat, This can cause the coil to cock sideways & this introduces it's own problems.
I have never seen a home mechanic / car enthusiast with a hacksaw or cutting disc shorten them "properly",...yet

Cut coils are a no no here for a good reason, & it relates directly to vehicle safety. I don't like the registration Nazi's any more that anyone else, but they do have their uses, & testing common vehicle modifications is one of them.
Using reset, or new made springs is always the best move.

You are right about springs & shocks. The spring absorbs the suspension deflection & stores the energy, the shock controls the RATE of energy release. This means that the shock controls the speed that the energy is released by the spring returning to it's static position & yes, in a MacPherson strut design, the shock is an integral part of the suspension unit.