I know it would be good for drags but what about handling?

Will it go round corners?

Do you think an AE86 handles good? they are 4 link, (or 5 link if you count the panhard rod). I based my 1200s rear-end geometry on one of those. I use standard AE86 Sprinter or TA18 Toyota links with my shortened Commodore diff. Will it work well? I don't know, when it's finished we'll all be a little wiser...

Chris

of cause it will be better. it will locate the rear end and stop it moving which will give you more traction and be more predictable.

Cheers because I am driving my sr 1200 it has a limo borgwarner but gets huge amounts of axel tramp. I dont want the same problem in my next project.

Chris
what size wheels and rubber are you running?
Do you have tubs mini tubs?

There would have to be heaps more room with the leaf springs removed!

do u have pics of your car man...interested...

731200, many cars with 4-link rears also have "huge amounts of axle tramp". It all depends on how it is done. Sometimes slapper bars or horizontal shocks are added to control it.

with the right springs/shocks i dont see why you would get axle tramp?

has anyone got coilovers on the back?

i mean anyone i have known to get axle tramp has bought new shocks and the problem dissapeared, although a CA or SR or whatever has more power i would think it would be fine with carefully tunned suspension,

this buisness of diff moving and stuff doesnt make much sense to me either, nolethane fixed that problem a long time ago for me

A picture of the 4 link rear on my car

No minitubs or anything. It's purely there to cope with power. I didn't want any extra engineering nightmares.

I haven't yet weighed the back of the car to get the springs made up for the spax coilovers. So they are replaced with the bars for moving the car around.

Guys. I've built a couple of 4 links now, one of which worked really well.
Axle tramp can't happen unless you get something wrong, or have knackered bushes in the end of your links.

Coupla pointers....
1- Make your links as long as possible
2- Make sure the links can rotate
3- Keep your links parallel
4- Dont let the front of your links get higher than the rear of your links

Point 1 - well, explains itself! The longer the arc it's swinging thru, the better things will be!

Point 2 - not immediately obvious, but it'll break something if the diff cant rock side to side...

Point 3 is where the problems start. If you want to put any 'anti' geometry in, you need to angle your links toward each other. This will cause the thing to bind if you try any meaningfull amounts. A 4 link needs to remain parallel to work. this is also why my next one will be a 3 link. 3 links arent so hot on the street....they just feel wierd...

point 4 - This'll cause roll oversteer, which is how I end overed my rally car....I've nothing good to report about that....

Like anything to do with suspension, there's no correct answer, you're just looking for the best compromise for your particular situation...