I went to the local auto transmission place yesterday (they are known for building trick autos) to get some advise on the ute.

I am running a standard 180sx box and miss the off the line starts that a manual gives. dont get me wrong the thing drives perfectly- changes gears when it should etc. From 3 grand it just comes on boost and hauls arse.

the guy at the workshop took it for a run and told me i would lose "seconds" on the quarter. We discussed stall converters but I am reluctant to change the way the car drives too much for the sake of the odd dash down the quarter.

I have tried boosting while holding the brake, but it just turns the tyres. It has a larger tunnel in it to fit the auto so any manual gear box will fit no dramas- but i want to keep the auto.

Does anyone have any advise - or experience to offer me?
Simon

a trans brake? ( or is tat the same as a stall converter?)
woodydat

Yeah, a high-stall converter will make it launch like manual transmission. So everybody says. I've only driven moderately higher-stall, never a race type.

But the downside is that for normal driving, the engine will rev up before moving. Kinda like a mopar transmission, but worse.

Quote:

What do you mean???? Chrysler boxes ( at least ones rhat arent compleately worn out are positive of the line as hell.My first three cars were all mopars with 904 torqueflites, and they never exhibited this behavior of which you speak. My current V8 mopar also doesn't rev up before moving, nor do the two my dear ol dad currently has.
I wou;d say if you drove one that took a second to move it was either low on oil, had a stall converter or was otherwise defective.
Of coarse torqueflites are not to be confused with the dismally apauling borgwarner type 35 which was fitted to Aussie six cylinder valiants. Those transmissions were total peices of sh1t.

Woodydat, a transbrake is a means of preventing the chasis from loading up with the torque of the engine untill the tree changes.

Bart

A trans break is something that allows you to push a button and the gearbox goes into 1st and reverse at the same time allowing you to stall it up then press the button again it drops reverse and away you go, however to not strain the box too much you will need a higher stall converter if you get one get a lock up converter cause after its stall limit it completely locks up (no slip no power loss)

Hope this healps.

Im am interested in your question cause I reasearched autos for a while for easier driving in city srteets (gas-break-honk) and still am interested. What engine,diff and stuff are you running??

I am running a CA18det with an auto from the same donor car (180sx 1990 model i think).
The diff is a narrowed comodore item with a shortened comodore tailshaft. Brakes are comodore disks all around also.
It is awsome for daily driving- it will drive like your everyday "family" car(steer with one hand and maccas in the other ). But put your foot down and its another car all together.
would love the transbrake / stall converter but not for everyday driving....

I asked about getting "quicker" changes but was told its harder to do on an electronic box??? (something to do with no cable linkages???)
May look into a full "manual" auto but the cost??
ideas?

if the motor is standard try a few bolt on's 2 get her going and maybe a higher stall, she''ll get moving with few mods, and keep the daily driver fealing,
can u put up some pics, cheers, im interested,

pics will be up soon,

the motor is stock, but has some fairly fat pipes to a BIG front mount so lag is made worse.... by adding larger turbo this will only make it worse (would be fun though)

i may have to get a stocker for daily transport and then go nuts on the ute!

When you put your foot on the brake and accelerator, what RPM does it reach befor the wheel start to spin??

Heres a theory from my basic knowledge of stall converters (anyone feel free to add coments speaking from reasearch not experiance) here it goes!

Assuming the standard stall converter is say 1200RPM befor it gives its maximum grip to the gearbox, Which wont be a lock up converter (i.e.always slipping like all stock autos hence the power loss)

So purcasing and fitting a 1800-2000RPM lock up converter would mean you could stall it up a little more at the lights and have better power to the wheels from 2000RPM onwards without the drivabilaty woes from say a 3000-4000RPM stall converter which most drag V8 autos use.

Hows that? Please add any comments that might sujest otherwise.

I also know a renound auto specialist so befor you get anything done get a quote From your guy and mine to compare prices so you dont get ripped off!!! (auto work is fairly expensive compared to manuals)

Quote:No, old chryslers move out right away, but their stall generally was a bit higher than Fords or GMs. I'm talking about 60s & 70s cars. I found it annoying, but most people don't notice or seem to mind. I reckon it gave the old mopars a performance advantage hence respect for the Torqueflight.