ive been researching a little on other alternators i can use in my coupe. i have installed a fair bit of electrical crap and am considering a few more bits and pieces (fuel pump/regulator and maybee elec water pump)

so far ive learnt that (hope its right)
Stock 1200 alternators do NOT have a built in regulator and only output close to 28 amps.

Datsun 200B alternators are internally regulated and output more like 40 amps.

if any1 can agree with me on that (the 200B swap) or provide me a better alternative i would appreciate it. i ran into troubles with recharging the battery fully (i had to do it manually with a slow leak battery re-charger) to give it a nice full charge.

im hoping to put in the replacement 200B alternator when my freshly purchased A15 goes in - some weeks away. hopefully i will be able to find a nice way to mount the 200B alternator as well..

has any1 else changed around their alternator successfully ??

EA falcon alternator goes in pretty easy:

is internal reg
and 75-85 amp out

i have put one in goth an early a-series and a15 (opposite sides of motor), both are pretty easy, and the wirring is easy as can be too (after i spent hours figuring it out for myself)

at uni now will give more details later, let me know which side you are mounting it on?

i assume it will go on the left (looking towards the car) as most of the A15's ive seen do - although i have seen one A15 with it on the right so ill have to see where it will fit best.. thanks for the info on the EA alt, ill scavenge around the wreckers for one. do you know what theyre worth re-con'd ?

the 200B alternator will simply bolt up to the A series alternator bracket.

the stock alternator is 25amp
the 200b i think is around 50
the ea comes in two versions, 75 and 85 amp

unfortunately i dont have my digi cam for 8 weeks so i cant take a pic of how i mounted mine, but it's easiest to install on a-15s

firstly there is two types of bracket, one is a very solid bracket, where the other is webbed, i remember the more solid version is better for the job

basically what i did was used the original front of the bracket to bolt directly to the front of the ea alternator, this lines the pulley up fairly accurately with the crank pulley, i then marked the bracket and cut the extra "meat" off the back of it that wasnt required by the ea alternator with a angle grinder (the bottom pivot holes on the ea alternator are closer together than on the datto versions), i then got an appropriate size drill bit and drilled right through the bracket from one hole to the other, to increase the hole and remove the thread, this allowed me to use the single bolt right through that comes on the falcon (one of the pivots on the alternator has thread in it, so a nut is not required either)

i had to muck around a bit grinding off the bracket to allow the alternator to swing fully, but this becomes obvious when you get to that stage

now the wirring, thats simple, but im gonna run to my car now to check it

ok, i undid my loow and removed all the now unnecesary wires and shortened them and all that buisness, but at the end of the day, i tossed the regulator, and connected the fat white with red tracer wire to the main terminal on the alternator, then theres is two wire from the bushes/regulator part on the alternator, one is also connected to the main ternimal of the alternator, the other connects to the thin white with red tracer wire, this is the dash warning light. thats all that needs to be hooked up.

that fat white originally went to the alternator anyway, and the thin one originally goes to the regulator

have fun, wish i could get you a pic of the mount but sorry, dad took my camera on holidays

[edit] both versions of the alernator have the same mounting and wirring

and i got my alternator for like $15 on special at a pick-a-part, a reco one is going to be around or over $150, so i just grabed a few second handies , it's only the bushes that are gonna wear out really and they are easy to replace yourself

I never thought of doing this before ,after hanging around v8's for so long and you have to buy an aftermarket alternator to run everything it never crossed my mind to do this to my Datto.
Perfect considering I wanna run a couple of amps and subs .
As the GRINCH say's"" BRILLIANT""

double post, still learning

best thing is, it's gets rid of wirring and that fugly regulator too

i first did it to my rallycar for the big spotties, but then relised that one day my a15 will be injec, run a couple of fuel pumps, big stezza and probably some fancy lights (spotties or neons), so i thought that i may aswell do it to that too.

bit of a side topic, but recently i've been checking out all diffrent ways to hide as much wirring as possible in the engine bay


mounting on passenger side (early a-12s)
if you read through, you will see i had trouble with the back bolt falling out a lot, make sure you use a lock nut or similar to prevent this on this setup

The stock one is 35 amps and is plenty if you're not running rally lights or 500-watt amplifiers. The 510/610 one that bolts right in is 50 amps.

But I like 1200rallycar's setup: use what you have available, get rid of the extra wiring.

The modern ones are very small and yet have high output, so consider maybe something from a 90s Toyota or Nissan. They probably all Hitachi units anyways.