hey fellas

just had an idea for adjustable boost, i know it will work, but whether it will spike to a high boost then settle im not sure

anyway the idea....

run a hobb's pressure switch on the outlet of the turbo or even the inlet manifold, and use this to open a solenoid in the wastegate actuator line, effectively giving no signal to the wastegate actuator until the hobbs detects a certain pressure, opens the solenoid and allows the full determined pressure to run into the actuator opening the wastegate

good idea????
bad idea????

please let me know


it works well in my fuel system, but thats a little bit diffrent in ways

It's basically a lot of work to allow the actuator to reduce the boost at a certain point.

You will get fast boost rise until the hobbes switch actuates at say 12psi, it will then revert to the maximum boost pressure supported by the standard actuator (~6psi). You could bleed off additional air (like a normal boost bleed valve), to increase this nominal value to say 8psi. But if you do that..then you have no need for the hobbes switch anymore.

If the hobbes switch fails you risk running VERY high boost pressures until something breaks.

You are just complicating things using the pressure switch. It doesn't provide any benefit.

I think you are better off connecting the hobbes switch to a little sign in your back window, that says "Warning, this Datto is Boosting"

oh yeah.........

spit

um, yeah i can see the solenoid opening and closing rapidly as boost bounces up and down

i tried just putting a tap in the actuator line, but that just spiked the boost for like 1 second

so whats the cheapest way to do it then...

I read In a book that you need two valves to run a bleed in the boost acuator line.
One is a ball valve, and then a needle type valve, to control the bleed .

Using restrictors can smooth out the transistions.

Get a second hand boost control bleed valve for $50. Not everything needs to be complicated.

Chris

Make one out off a fuel lockoff solonoid with a bleeder on one end thats what I had on my old et turbo and it worked well wont cost your more than $40 to make I now its not as good as an electronic one but a lot cheaper.Theres an article on n12turbo.com that was in an old hot fours that tells you how to go about it