hey all, i aquired a 910 bluebird today for a very good price, complete with motor, loom, computer, 5 speed box with spare box which is a auto and tons of spare parts . now whats involved in this conversion, has anyone done it? im aware of the fact that i would have to convert from cable to hydrolic clutch, or is there a way around this? what driveshaft can i use? would my standard b310 diff take the torque produced by a z20et?


Karl

is there such a thing as a Z20et? Surely not a factory job?
Why can't you use a cable? Surely with a bit of banging, welding and grinding followed up by some nice cold ones, you could manufacture and modify the bits required for the engine to run using a cable?

yea sorry my bad, its a z20e. yea im sticking with a cable setup.......is there any advantages of hydrolic over cable?

can 910 struts be used on a b310?

910 struts will nearly bolt straight in. Change the strut tops, and get some rings machined up to key the 910 struts to the 310 steering arms.

PM FIGJAM, (Warrick). He is in CHCH.
He is putting a Z20 into a 1200 two door sedan.
He is fabricating a whole new tunnel/floor pan.
However the 310 have quite a large tunnel already. (I am fitting an L20b into a 310 coupe real soon. they may even use the same gearbox.
the only real challange is modifing the X member. Yoiu may have to recess the top of the X member to get the motor low enough to clear the bonnet.
You will also need a "frontsump" .

Converting to a hydrolic clutch is simple on a 310. I will have to show you mine when it is in.
I wouldn't dream of trying to go cable for this swap.

If you jave the whole car for the swap, it should be easy if you have acsess to some engineering resourses.

We'll have to catch up sometime.

Bart.

the advantages of hydraulic is smaller radius of bends. You can have a hydraulic pipe going up down left right down left etc. TRY that with a cable.

If you want to go hydraulic, remove the cable. The clutch pedal looks like a hook at the top. you can use this point, as a stop for the push rod (which exsists at the end of a hydraulic cylinder) etc

basically...you end up with a hydraulic cylinder, inside the car, with the reservoir end closer to you. the reservoir can be attached remotely making fluid changes easier.

thanks for the info guys, yea getting parts modified or fabricated isnt going to be a problem as my old man is a engineer/fabricator.

Okay, im going to convert to hydraulic clutch, not very familar with it though, all my cars have been run by cable clutch. which cylinder would be best to use? this 910 bluebird has no brakelines/cylinder so havent been able to get it back home yet....do any of you guys have a car transporter?

Thanks.

Karl

I would do the clutch differently.
Remove the two nuts on the firewall, (engine bay side) that come through from the pedal box.
Grind off the studs. redrill two holes in the same X axis as to two factory ones were, only at the same centres as the holes in you clutch master cylinder. Cut a hole using a holesaw between the two new holes of a just slightly bigger than the peice of the master that will poke through into the cabin.
get two capscrews that are long enough to go through from the back, and fasten the master cylinder to the fire wall. Tack the heads of these to the inside of the pedal box so that they can't turn. remove the clutch pedal , and drill a hole in it below the pivot fulcrum.
then make a pin to go through this hole, and through the bit on the end of the clutch master cylinder push rod. where you have to mount the cylinder, (due to the rolled shape at the edge of the pedal box) means that the pushrod won't line up perfectly, so you will need to have a spacer between the pedal and the end of the pushrod.
You may also have to alter the length of the pushrod to get the right amount of travel. (trial and error)

I hope this all makes sense. If your old man is an engineer, it should be a peice of piss.
Don't try and drive the old studs ou7t of the pedal box. The are factory tacked to the pedal box. you would probably need to remove the box to get then out .

Its certainly easier A14's way, but rememmber to make sure that the hole in the pedal far enough away from the pivot to allow you to displace enough fluid to actuate the slave cylinder.

I was thinkin of doin it this way but I can't remember why I didn't. I think it was because the hole for the master cylinder ends up on the boot covering the steering rack??????????maybe not, don't know.