I cooked my A14 going up steep hill with temp gauge not working, i stripped the head off and it seems the problem is only leaking and mixing of water, oil, and exhaust gasses via under head gasket, so the bottom end should be ok.

because the oil is all like choc milk, what is the best way to try and clean all the internals without stripping motor apart?

im thinking once i get the head refaced and back on, i could pour 4 litres of turps through the motor, crank it a bit to get the crank and conrods and cam and all moving in the turps a bit then put fresh oil in and drive it for a day then change ther oil again.

or should i just run fresh oil for a day then change it againand not bother with the turps and all, like the sludge might just dissolve in the hot oil?


also i noticed when i took the manifolds off that the inlet port is oval shape, is this a GX?

also does anyone know where in perth would be a good place to get headwork done to A14.

I usually, clean it the best I can and after I get it back together, I run It for a short period and change the oil right away, and then follow up with another one shortly after that

I recently had the same problem on a ford. It took 3 oil changes 15 litres of oil & 3 filters to get it right Safeway oil is great for this problem you wont need turps. The trick is to get it to running temp first then drain it

I suspect that the turps would be a bad idea.

A method that i used was to drain the oil & let it drip for a while. Replace the filter & refill with 2/3ds oil [the cheapest that you can find] & 1/3 kerosene.
Run the engine at a fast idle [about 1000 rpm] & let it warm up. This will flush the whole lubrication system. When it's warm, & you are sick of the sound of it running, turn it off, drain the oil & refill with your regular lubricant. I would change the filter again too.

\Now go for a nice cruise for about an hour. If there was any water remaining in the engine it will evaporate & be drawn out of the crankcase through the PCV valve. See, they ARE usefull devices after all.
Just kep an eye on the oil level & the colour for a little while to be sure that you have fixed the problem.

While you're at it, fix the temp guage, & rectify the cause of the overheating, assuming that the overheating caused the gasket failure & not vice versa.

ahh that sounds good compromise. and yes maybe the gasket caused the problem, the head bolts were too easy to undo for my liking. I will get an auto electrician to sort the guage for sure.

Dodgeman how did your respray turn out, have u got it back yet?

Dodgeman, many years ago I wise old man advised me against putting kerosene in my 1000 as he said it would have an abrasive action, he also said I shouldnt use the commercially available engine flushes as it would make for a rattly donk.
This is what made me advise against the use of turps.
I have never done any of these things myself , so I cant speak with any authority, but the man who told this to me ( he is probably dead now) was someone who had been around cars for a long time.

OK,... Sidedraught
The kerosene is to be used, when mixed with oil at about 2 parts oil & 1 part kero for a short time only in an engine that is not seeing any load, so the only effect is to wash the inside of the engine.
I DO NOT recomend driving the car at all with the kero mixture at it has already broken down the lubricating qualities somewhat, but a no load fast idle woll be fine.
NEVER use turps. Sometimes the use of kero, or any other flushing agent can result in more noise in a high mileage engine because it removes much of the gunk that was disguising the worn condition of the engine. Releasing any sludge is the reason for the second filter change.

The spray job has not yet been completed, however i will post pictures as soon as it is done.

cool kero not turps. can either of u guys answer my other qn re CR and head shaving?

Hey 1000Coupe, sorry to semi hiijack your thread but did you come down to a cruise in perth in a blue magna?

as for your head work, i'll PM you some details