Hey all, I am after info on flared guards - either flares that can be atatched, or fibreglass guards, or something
else i havent mentioned...
Due to my strut swap, which went well, the front is lower and wider, so i get rubbing on the front corners.
How about getting the guards rolled? or cutting the front edge back?
Flares look better eh? After seeing all those NZ coupes , i want fat feet too.
Options please--thanks, Linc

Hello -

This fellow:

http://www.piner.com/japco/

purports to have fiberglass flares and such for the 1200, but the photo links on the site are broken.

Perhaps he'd be willing to sell you the molds, if he doesn't have a lot of demand. I tried to find his place last time I was in NC, USA, but had
trouble locating him.

Don't know how well the parts would travel to NSW...

Good luck in your hunting...

I've called this guy at Japco Race Glass about the fiberblass fender flares about a year ago, he said he didn't have any pictures of the 1200 flares, but his place will gladly sell them to
ya. Not a bad option for those of us with lowered rides. The rear flared fenders include the whole rear quarter that has to be bonded on so that kinda sucks. I'd go for the fronts without
the rears, I wonder if it would look tacky?

-Andy

I fitted fibreglass flares to my 120y that I sorced through foxton reinforcing plastics in the south island the cost was around $180nz they came with rivnuts and allan key
type bolts looks really smart

well i have a ute so it will be front only anyway. do you have a site for foxton?
or pics? linc.

Get an aluminium baseball bat, or equivalent length of tube, and place between tyre and guard. Have someone you trust drive slowly forward and back while you lever the bat to get the
guard profile you want. Watch for kickback or connecting with the strut as the bat rolls by. Obviously there is an element of safety missing from this so from a culpable point of
view I am not suggesting you try this at all. See if Chris Lotts Nana is available...

I've heard of this being done before but wasnt sure how well it would work. Does it crack much of the paint? I think i will have to use this method when i fit up the
new struts and wheels!!!

Scott
Davo

Hmm, well I tried to do this method on my 1200 a few weeks ago when I was trying to make room for the 14's on the rear. It didn't work because the 1200 was too light. As soon as the bat
worked itself in between the tire and body, it just lifted the whole body up and didn't bother to bend the metal around the wheel well at all! I tried it a few times with no luck. The
front might be easier cause the metal is thinner, but I just decided to give up and temporarily raised my rear end back up to stock height (yuck!) for the winter. As soon as I get back
from winter break I have to replace my rearend, I managed to wreck an H150 rearend (78 B210 GX) I picked up at a junkyard for $60 within about a month. Oh well. See ya

-Andy

That's when you invite the neighbours over and have them sit in the trunk while you roll! The rear arches are much stronger but you can still get a good result - just
need more ballast!