My mechanic just got all the wiring done on my datsun 1200 fitted with a ca18det and we're having problems firing the relay. We aren't getting any power from the green fuel pump wire. The pink and red wires are getting power ..

The green light on the side of the computer is on, but the yellow doesn't come on while cranking the motor over. ? Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Bryan

The Microtech was purchased new or re-calibrated for the CA18DET engine?

Usually when delivered these computers have a standard set of maps in them particular to the engine that will allow them to start.

I'm just reminded of someone else recently on these forums who bought a Microtech unit second hand - but it was calibrated for a different engine...giving him problems.

I've had the same drama too in the past and it required a re-cal by Microtech.

Also I thought Microtech was a small time Australian operation....I never realised they sold this stuff in the US. Or is it a US company to begin with?

Micro tech are top performers when it comes to rotaries and are based for rotary engines not 4 stroke engines .I would go with a haltec heeps more options and were developed for 4stroke engines ..Also try and find some one that can do realtime tuning ,my mate charges 300$ for a 5 hr realtime tune session .Its heaps better than a dyno tune

Quote:
Thats kind of worrying. But maybe that explains it.
Does he know how to wire a relay?
The green wire shouldnt show power. Its the timed negative for the relay.
Red wire from computer should have 12v battery.
Black and brown from computer should have -Neg battery.
Pink wire should get 12v from the ignition switch and this same 12v ign should go to 85 on the relay.
Green from the computer should go to 86 on the relay.
Turn on the key and hey presto the fuel pump will go for 30 seconds or continue upon engine running.


120fly whats so different about the EFI inputs and outputs of both rotary and 4 stroke engines? Not much if any.
What you say is based on the fact that many rotary performance shops use and sell Microtech

Microtech. Started in Sydney by Domenic. But like everything, the ultimate plan is to get bigger. Selling worldwide tells me Dom was/is successful.

the pink wire is a power wire which is ignition switched by the ECU, the green wire is a -ve switch from the ECU meaning the ECU connects that wire to earth therefore creating a circuit and the pump goes, is ther relay wired up right? The green wire shouldn't have any voltage on it otherwise it won't work....
Seeing the yellow light isn't flashing that means the ECU isn't firing which means you have a CAS problem to test that out turn the ignition to ON pull out the CAS and spin the pole that sticks outta the CAS around, you should hear clicking which are the injectors, if you don't hear that then you have a CAS problem.

Hope I've helped

Damo

I'll be following this thread very closely as Im looking to a LT-10 to run my SR20.
Phunk...Have Microtech got good back up support???
I sent them an email and still no reply...and Im almost ready to buy one. If they are that slow with sales theyd be even worse with after sales.

I use a microtech Mtx8 on my CA and it's great, Adjustable points go up in 500rpm a opposed to autronics 100rpm.

The new LT10s that microtech have released is great as it has an output for your thermo fan relays standard, so it's not taking up valuable outputs. My experience of their support has been great for tech support contact tim@microtechefi.com.au
Installing a microtech is very easy (compared to other ECU's.

I'll be using a LT10s on my next project, the LT10s also has the option of running closed loop O2 sensing (like what stock ECU's do) and modify it's maps to suit the a/f ratio.

cheers
damo

Craig there are 2 microtech websites;
www.microtech-efi.com run by mazfix in Victoria
and www.microtechefi.com with the before mentioned Tim as support.
I have never dealt with either.
I have always dealt straight with Dom or Russell
Workshop number - 02 98085233
Dom mobile - 0418643044

Dom is Microtech and designs and makes the ecu's.
There has never been a situation were Dom couldnt set me straight over the phone.

"Adjustable points go up in 500rpm a opposed to autronics 100rpm"


Autronic have user selectable load and rev points so they have no set gap

eg u can have 200,400,800,1200,2000,3000,3200,3350,5000 etc
(incidentally this was a feature that the later generations of Motec copied off Autronic)

gap is whatever u want and is most useful for fuel consumption and smooth cruising at your common speeds (60 and 100kmh)

autronic is a good choice over LT 10 as the price is not that different and they are a better ecu for overall drivability and consumption (in my opinion). they are basically a Motec without the price tag and all the options.

the way i see it
full on budget = Microtech
sensible road car, drag or race car with harder to decipher logging = Autronic
full suspension logging and user friendly systems for those who are "brand name oriented" = Motec

after sales will depend on who u buy it off and how much u pay, if you beat them down on price then dont expect the help.

any Autronic questions then let me know, i may be able to help

ben