I've got a '72 coupe and the current wheels are not really my speed. I took it to the tire shop and got the wheels spin balanced to get rid of a horrible vibration on the freeway, but they told me my left rear was bent.

I went to the meet in Camby, OR this last weekend looking for some 14" wheels to fit on the car. I was hoping to find some '80-ish Z wheels (really like the swastica look) but was informed that the offset makes them prone to rub.

Does anyone have a suggestion of a wheel I can start looking for that will fit in the fenders without too much modification? Im willing to roll the lip up and I really like the look of wheels that fill up the whole fender but definately do not want rub problems.

A seperate issue is that I want to drop the whole front crossmember and suspension out of the '81 210 I have in my driveway and frankenstein it into the 1200. I know this increases the track, how does this effect the wheel fitting? If it is going to require a large positive offset I may wait until I get it done to invest in some new (used) wheels but I do not know the details.

What I gathered was that I needed a slightly positive offset to keep the rub down.. and if I was going to go with 14's I would need some 195/60's or thinner to get away with it.

Any experience or suggestions before I go spend money would be much appreciated.

Here is a great 510 wheel FAQ with a ton of wheels and info on them. I know the 1200 is a little more limited.. but may be useful to any who have not seen it.

http://kmhafer.datsun510.com/wheelFAQ.htm

Thanks,
-david

aren't the swastika ones 15x6? i saw some on ebay and they claimed to be 15x6.

i have 80's 280z 14" 6 spoke wheels, they fit nice but i don't have a 210 frontend.

15" RWD offset wheels are rare, more rare in 4x114.3

this should become a project for me to figure out what spacer to make so we can use fwd offset wheels.

Quote:Why would you want to graft the whole 210 [B310] cross member into the 1200? All you need are the bare struts [& brakes] & perhaps the lower suspension arms to make it all fit & work. Use the 1200 springs & top pieces, fit new shock inserts & it's done.

wouldnt the frame rails and bolts be way out of sync and to get a true ride be real hard to get

Well, the reason I mentioned it is that I read somwhere (i think) that it was a bolt-in swap. I thought it would be cool because I could sand blast and rebuild everything on my shop floor and then swap the whole crossmember with suspension all at once.

The other problem that the B310 crossmember would solve is getting rid of the funkified motor mounts that are required to adapt the 1200 crossmember to the A14 that I have in there.

Anyone know if this bolt-on is correct?

The crossmember that you need would be from the 1974 & later B120. [Datsun 1200 ute]
This is made for the B110/B120 chassis, was made to fit the newer A series engine design & has the suspension points in the righ place.
The B310 crossmember is for the wider chassis of the parent car & the mounting points for the lower arms & the chassis would also be too widely spaced for the B110 chassis.
If I remember rightly, Tyrie has a crossmember for sale right now. Best to start at the 'newest' post & work backwards a little to find his full list.

Alright I must have misunderstood whatever lead me to beleave I could do the bolt-in B310 crossmember swap. All is well though because that means I can continue to use the tierod ends and idler arm which I have already replaced. I will strip the struts, control arms, and swaybar from the 210 before I junk it.

I have a set of headers from the Datsun Shoppe here in Portland which I cant mount due to interferance with the custom mounts that Bryon made for the A14. I guess I should stop being a weenie and use my new TIG and plasma cutter equipment/skills and make myself new mounts that will allow the header to fit.

Thanks for the infoz.
-david