Well i finally bought a new computer, a lot has happened since i first put lseries power under thebonnet.
First i ran a bugged na l20b with no compression, cut a best of 16.7, then did the first turbo conversion using same engine with a big toyota ct20b from vvti 1jz, blowthru webber design, unfortunatelly i f***** up and put turbo flange gasket(homemade) in the wrong way and took out the exhaust wheel(nonrebuildable).
Now i have an l20b in ok condition(200k behind auto though), massivelly ported l20b head still running standard valves/compression, i made up a custom inlet manifold with 5L plenum, 7mgte injectors, vl turbo fuel pump, surge, xf throttlebody, bov, also made ####ty log style turbo manifold as had no room for custom, new tdo4 off 2002wrx, 3inch dump and full 3inch system with a straight through muffler(may need a resy), poxy little supra cooler, using 2L camry radiator as perfect fit however only single core ,
I started using delco ecu with jaycar fuelcontroller kits but couldnt dial enough fuel out so ive bought a haltech e6x for it, its currently at btd getting tuned, should have results by next wkend hopefully! Hoping for about 130rwkw ish on pulp and 15psi max boost
Oh yea still running stock 280zx clutch , 280zx 5spd and yea a locked borgwarner h150 which took massive abuse before but will probably die now?
I will keep posted with new pics and info!

go the L series, mmm a turbo is just what i need to get #4 cylinder back up to normal compression

where abouts does the gearstick come up with the 280zx box?

hell yea gotta keep up with the 5L boys somehow, gearstick is approx 80-100mm back requiring new hole and handbrake to be moved, personally ive spun the gearstick/selector around 180degrees and its in a nice position in a sedan. box fit withno other mods than grinding off gbox mounts, ill post a pic of undernieth

hmmm, my ute doesnt need a handbrake, i have a spare L20b and 720 5 speed..... 2 L series 1200s in one shed, could be nice

ive got the sss stanza box in my sedan, pretty much in the standard postion, just need to shorten it a bit to get a nice gearstick height

Looks like i might be lucky enough to get the complete diff assy from a mates vp commodore if i help him remove the engine/box. Its a 28spline jobbie with a mini spool in it and 3.89diff gears, Boargwarner i think!
Does anyone no whats involved in shortening it down, im guessing that a certain amount is chopped from each side tube/housing and rewelded and then the axles would need to be shortened/resplined? What about stud pattern change i want nissan 4stud pattern? then new mounts/tailshaft. Sounds expensive!

need to get the axel tubes shortened, and the axels cut down and resplined
if you want 4 stud, find an r31 and take its axels, should go into the commodore diff as they should have the same flange on the end (they are pretty much the same diff)
then get the skyline axels cut down instead of the commo ones
then you just cut all the original mounts off and weld ones to suit the leaves on

or just take it to a diff place with the skyline axels and ask them to sorten it to suck a length, will be costly though

cheers pigdog will have 2 look into those axles, would be good if there same size and bearing/plate setup.
What diff are you running behind your l20b, had any dramas? So far ive not snapped an axle but ive never had good tyres on the rear or axle tramp.
Sounds like there would be a lot of measuring to get it in the right spot!

Another L-series dato, and in adelaide!!

if you go R31 only the long side needs to be shortened, the short side becomes the long side when cut down to suit 1200, and axle housings / tubes swapped over.

Short coupe, does this mean you can use two short side axles?