the 2 wires i'm holding that go into the side of the distributor?

the green wire goes to the negative side of the coil and the pink wire goes to the positive side of the coil.
is it the datrats dizzy and bosch HEC715 coil? if so don't forget to remove the ballast resistor and join the two connectors with a bridging wire

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yeh it is the datrat dizzy and the bosch coil you sold me.

so just onto the terminals of the coil?

should i have hooked up the wires that were already there on the last coil to the new coil? (ie. do i need any other wires on the new coil to make it work?)

this is all new for me if you hadn't already guessed.

and ive already go rid of the ballast resistor

yep all you need to do is replace the stock coil with the new coil and put all the wires onto the same polarity terminals of the new coil and it will work fine, I did mine about a week ago and it works perfectly. I have gapped the plugs to .038 inch so I will let you know how that gap works when I get a chance to test it out

The standard gap for the L series engines that came with these ignitions from new was 1.1mm [.044"] so you know that they deliver some pretty good spark.

jeeeeeze thats a big gap, they should call these setups madonna ignitions kits!

do you know what plugs i should run in my engine? the ones in there will be fine will they not? or should i get the ones for the l series or are they alreaddy in this engine zane?

the plugs in your engine are NGK BP5ES I think they are the required plug for the A series engine, I don't think L series plugs will fit in the A series head, I am also running NGK BP5ES plugs and have just walked inside after pulling the plugs again and resetting the gap to .044" so I will see how it goes when my son wakes up!

EDIT: I think you may be able to get hotter range plugs too but I don't know which heat range would work the best, I guess if it is too hot the plug will burn but how would it be possible to distinguish between a plug being too hot or the engine running lean?

yeh i spose it would have the same effect on the appearance of the plug.

anyway thanks alot for your help. no doubt ill be asking more questions in the next few days.

i got my fuel system set up yesterday. and today i got all the pcv pipes worked out.

all i need to do now is get the hose worked out that flows coolant from the back of the head to the lower radiator pipe. i buggered the little screw in part at the back of the head because i ripped the heater out and though "oh well i dont need this anymore" and so i filled it with loctite metal filler!
i know better now....

so once i get that sorted it should be ready to go in...... finally

I had a simillar problem with my motor too, I went to remove a big grub screw from that hole in the back of the head but no matter how much care I used the allen key snapped before the grub screw loosened. I now have just the radiator and no heater at all... thank god it is summer!