Has any one tried this on a a14 motor ? What kind of performance can i expect?

Oh yes i am using a 272degree cam and 2inch free flow exhaust

I have one on my A15 and it works great, I am using F6 emulsions, 185 air correctors, 50 idle jets and the main jets are 145 but I am using a 2 litre accelerator pump jet and powervalve as the ones I need seem to be hard to find.
I put a photo up on the gallery of the linkage I made up for the stock throttle wheel and cable, if you decide to use the 38 DGAS Weber the pic should help you get it hooked up to the accelerator cable.
Heres a good site for tunuing the Weber 38 DGAS
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/38_dgas_tunning.htm

Thanks this will be of great help.What did you do with your vacuum advance cause when i connect myne is very jerky on low revs

Oh yeah man I know what you mean about being jerky at low rpm!. It is due to the fact that the 38 DGAS carb is a synchronous opening carb and because of that it is less behaved and a bit too responsive to tiny throttle inputs, the 32/36 is a progressive opening carb which means the primary circuit opens first so low rpm opperation is more smooth and controllable but the 38 dgas is more suited to modified engines and flows more.
The vacuum advance seems to work normally but take your time to set up the lean best idle so the idle screw isn't wound too far in causing vacuum to reach the vacuum advance port, by having it only just wound in about half a turn from initial contact vacuum won't reach the advance port and it will idle alot lower.
When I first set up my 38 dgas I had the idle screw turned in about one and a half turns and I had set base timing to 5 degrees with vacuum advance line disconected and pluged and when I reconnected the advance line the timing instantly went to 10 degrees and idle increased by 300rpm so by traking your time to tune it you will enjoy it alot more and understand how it all works

I had a go at the lean best idle tunning today but i am not happy just yet.There also seem to be preignition that i cant get rid of (my head is still stock)I have 142mains 205air correction and 45 idle jets

yeah I also have a preignition every now and then, not too sure why this happens.
did you count the turns out from fully seated on your idle mixture screws? mine are out by 1 and one third of a turn and my idle speed screw is 3/4 of a turn in from first contact with the arm

I never knew where to look for the emultion tubes now i finally found and cleaned them and there is n big difference.What size neddle and seat do you use and how hi is your float level?

I am not sure what type of needle and seat I am using but I am using a brass float. it all looks brand new because the carb was rebuilt by a shop here in my local area. When I took the top of the carburettor off I checked the fuel level which was about 25mm deep in the bowl, I have a pair of F80 emulsion tubes and 180, 185 and 190 air correctors to test out and see what differences each combination will make, it just takes alot of time to tune eveything in and test every change but I guess it would be worth the time in the end when you have a sweet running datto.
One thing I had problems with was the idle air mixture screws at the bottom of the carburettor base on each side, I had a problem with them vibrating loose and winding themselves closed, I fitted a tiny O-Ring to each screw to absorb the vibrations and prevent them from moving

I lifted my float level and it seem to have helped alot,its running alot smoother.Since i cleaned the emulsion tubes i have foud that its pings in 3rd at full throttle.Must i go for bigger mains? My timing is at 10 deg.btdc.