I got a B210 with a A14. It has a 32/36 webber and racing header. I've noticed an increase in power, but now I'm considering a new cam. How much more of an increase am I looking at with a cam upgrade.
I've also considered swapping to a L-series for more power but the info is very limited. People have done it. It's just that there isn't a step by step like with the 1200, 510, and 1600.
Just looking for some advice.
Thanks

If you go for a bigger cam you might want to think about multiple carbs to get the most out of it.

As for the L series upgrade it should be pretty simple as they were an option from the factory. I know you use the crossmember from a 180B.

B210 and 1200 (B110) are nearly identical, so the L-series swap for 1200 instructions will apply to the B210. The main advantage is that B210 can use the A10 (new 510) or 710 (180B) crossmember so it is more of a bolt-in.

With the 32/36, you don't need dual carbs. The 32/36 flows enough for all the HP an A14 can make. My advice is fit dual-springs on the valves, and get a cam for max 6800 RPM. It should be a noticeable increase in power.

But fitting a stock L20B will give you even more power, for less money than your modified A14.

I'm pretty sure only the p610 crossmember will fit the b210, and even then it will sit the engine too high. A10 (stanza?) crossmember IIRC is used for L-series into b310 swaps.

So if I decide to do a L18 or L20b swap, would I have to replace the rear end to handle the power or is the H150 OK. If I read right the 620 or 510 wagon rear should work without shortening, right?
What about width? I seem to have a lot of clearance, so how much wider are these rear ends?
Oh, and thanks for the advice.

L-series engines -- even the L14 in the PB110 -- were fitted with H165 or larger diffs.

The H150 ring gear is less than 5-3/4 inches so it is still "tiny". It's only good for maybe 125 ft. lb. torque. See Diff Torque Rating

I'll go with my standard: For a street car the weber 32/36, header, dual valve springs and a street cam should work well. I'd estimate 90-95 HP. Stocker was 78-80 HP so that's pretty good. Throw some sway bars on , good dampers / shocks , 175/60 13's better brake pads or even fab some plates to mount Wilwood calipers and it will make for a super cheap and fun run about.........otherwise put in a twin turbo Z motor , huge brakes near race suspension cuz if your gonna make it a money pit it should be scary stupid fast................Seriously I wrestle with this all the time; make my 1200 wazoo fast or keep it fun, cheap and reliable. End of the day I always decide that if I want a super fast car I should just go back to the single seat race car and learn not to whine about the cost.

For me Datsun is about low bucks fun.

Tom

too rite there

if you have a decent running car, learn to get 100% of the power it has, and even 75 Hp will get you going plenty fast.

Then when you master that start adding more power.

I'm just trying to balance the cost/power ratio. I don't want to spend a lot of money getting my A14 beefed up, to find out that I could have swapped an L for less to get similar results.
I've already put some money in, but the cam upgrade and the swap are a lot more. Just want to get the most for my money.
I don't need it to scary fast since this is my daily driver. Even with my 510's I only did the KA swap.