Like the title says will it fit with ease? I wasnt going to do anything to my thou but a mate has a Datsport A15 in his 1200 ute which has been taken off the road for a CA or the likes so he said I can have the A15 for bugger all something i cant refuse!!! But i dont want to be spending money on this and that to get it sorted so yeah is it easy to do?

will it bolt in? straight answer. no

Is it easy to do? In comparison to other non a series engine conversions yes.

Quote:
Abolutely correct, ..... NO, it will not bolt straight in, but then you ask a modified form of the question, ...saying 'as the title says, will it fit with ease?' [actually the title asks if it will bolt straight in, which is different] finishing with a third question, 'is it easy to do?'
That's a subjective one. If you know what you are doing & have a suitably equiped workshop, then yes, but since you don't even know about the variation in A series engine mounts yet, then perhaps not.

None the less, as engine swaps go, this would be among the least difficult to do.

So then what are the things that i need to know and suss out fabricate etc... So I can get an idea of things I can do and also things i will need to outsource.

Cheers

since nobody is giving any hints, i recall that you need to enlarge the tranny tunnel, and make a new rear tranny mount. I think you have to move one of the motor mounts back...


the wiki has all this, that's where i read it.

Gee even a Yank knows how to do it and they never got 1000s

Yeh you need to set the engine mounts back. There are various ways about this. Also depending on what box your using massage the tunnel with a BFH. Not that hard. If you keep a A12 box you can use the original mounts but have to swap clutch cables too.

You can use the original gearbox if you treat it gently, but a 60 series would be better since you are going to give it hell anyway.
If you use the original box, you need to shorten the spiggot as it will bottom out in the crank & prevent the box from bolting up. The 1000 spiggot was pretty long but didn't need to be.
You will also need to adapt the 1200 or later clutch release bearing to the 1000 bearing carrier.
If using a later gearbox, the firewall/tunnel will need to be eased to allow clutch arm clearance. There will also be other clearance issues with the larger 60 series box & a new gearbox mount will need to be fabricated or bought through B projects. [I think that they make one]

The engine mount brackets on the engine will not line up with the brackets on the crossmember. They will be further back, so some fabrication & welding will be needed to overcome this.

You will also need to go with one of the disc brake upgrades as driving this with original drums & an A15 will be both illegal & stupid. In fact a complete dual circuit upgrade will be necessary, unless it's a coupe which has dual circuit brakes anyway.

Then we move to the diff which uses the H145 in 4.11 to 1 ratio [if it's a passenger model] Since the A15 uses a stroke that is almost an inch longer [23mm actually] than the 1000, you will have bags of torque on tap, so the ratio is a bit low & the diff a bit frail, but since no other readily available rear axle assembly is narrow enough to slip under there easily, you have several choices.

Install H145 diff from a 1200 in 3.9 to 1 ratio. This will help the gearing a little.
Install H150 diff from a 120Y in 3.9 to 1 ratio. This will help the gearing a little as well as diff strength. This should fit into the B10 axle housing OK & be all lined up if a 2mm spacer & a second gasket is used.
Install H150 diff from A15 powered Sunny wagon in 3.7 to 1 ratio. This will provide better gearing in the lightweight B10.
Install narrowed rear axle assembly, possibly from a Sunny wagon or the larger Bluebird range. This will allow better ratios, stronger diffs & axles & some options with better brakes.

The stock radiator will be fine if in fully serviceable condition & the later clutch cable will hook up to the original pedal, but you will need to make up a small spacer on the cable to allow proper adjustment [excess slack]

The alternator is on the wrong side of the engine so you can either fabricate a new mount & reposition an alternator back where it went originally, or buy the bracket from pitroad, or re-do the wiring to pick up the new position.

Fit the water fittings from the old engine to the new & use B10 hoses.

Be aware that the A15 engine is much taller & the bonnet will not close with a stock carb & air cleaner in place, so GX induction is recomended.

Ensure that all suspension & steering components are up to snuff as a bare minimum.

These should be the major areas of concern, but of course there will be other minor things to annoy. There always is.

Well well then not as easy as i thought.

The good thing is that he said I can have whatever I want off the car barr brakes and maybe diff

For now I just want to concentrate on the motor and maybe gearbox side of things and not get into suspension etc...

It has twin solexes on it so bonnet clearance shouldnt be much of an issue (maybe width though)

Ive got a mate who aint bad with the ol welder plus I have done some fab with trans mounts before on my old Falcon and seeing as ill have to shorten the spiggot on the stock box i might as well upgrade hey?

So I guess my best bet is to get the motor and box and see how it goes and if it gets too hard im sure someone here will be willing to take it off my hands for a price of course :)

Oh P.S. cheers for the help

not as easy as you thought?

Its easy peasy! Did you look in the wiki about it? same thing applys for a late a12/a15 into a 1200(non ute).
and twin solex's do fit.
def upgrade gearbox. Im surpirsed my 1200 one has lated so long. Diffs dont take too much abuse though

To be honest, one of the best swaps into the B10 chassis is the 1200 engine [distributor at the front] The engine mount points on the block are in the same place as the A10 & the original gearbox spiggot can be shortened a little with a right angle grinder, but the 1200 box & the later 56A boxes will go in with only the slightest amount of work to the firewall.

The performance available from a GX spec engine, or a 1200 with an A14/15 head & sidedraughts is still VERY good, & the shorter stroke 1200 engine will rev freely, but the lower torque figures are more gentle on the gearbox & diff. This free reving is more compatible with the lower ratio diffs that we seem to be stuck with.

I drove my '68 sedan with a big bore 1200 GX engine for about 15 years & loved it so much I am building an improved version of the same basic car.

The real problems with the A15 revolve around its ability to munch up the original driveline components with relative ease, but if you switch to the smaller & easier to fit 1200 block & you can save yourself a whole bunch of grief.

Incidentally, if you really want some more grunt from the 1200 engine, it can safely be bored to 76mm [use A14 pistons] & if you close your eyes & hold your breath while they do it, 'most' blocks will go to 77mm [A14 pistons in second oversize.] These A14 pistons have a larger wrist pin, so it will be necessary to bore the rods to suit, or get some A12A rods from the US [I got 2 sets, so they can be found]

Want more? The A14 crank can be used to gain a 10% increase in stroke, so with a 77mm bore & the 77mm crank, that little 1171cc engine becomes 1434cc [23% increase] making it the mouse that roars, but this engine would be testing the limits of gearbox & diff strength if you give it some stick. [& you would]