I am in the process of transfering my runing gear from my smashed coupe to my other shell and have hit a snag. I have changed cross members and suspension and brakes but I was trying to
change over the sway bar. Someone before (previous owner) me had tryed removing the old one (on the spare shell) and has snapped both bolts holding the u-shape plate on one side of the
sway bar. This means the sway bar can only be held by the two holes at the end of the bar and one of the u-plates. This will not work properly, right? So whats an easy way of mounting the
bar, as the two holes have the snapped bolts rusted in them. There is no way of attaching pliers etc to the bolts as they have snapped clean with the chassis!
Other than that the swap of runing gear is going well, except the clutch cable was stuck on the clutch fork lever! Once I have the castor rods and sway bar in, Im going to change diffs,
tail shafts and then finally put the g'box and engine in!
Hopefully the engine will start, and Im trying to work out whether anything in the driveline (crank, gearbox) might have bent as a result of the crash?
Cheers
Simon

I reckon dont bother using an Ezeout - as they are a scam. well maybe not, but i have never had one work...but maybe if u were to heat the area with a torch, or drown it in wd-
40, or some other thing, u may be able to use an ezeout.
Or u could just drill it out, and retap the hole.
What if u were to weld a plate over the old holes, drill and tap the new plate( with holes inthe chassis behind it) and use that as the new mounting point? i dunno....
good luck - Linc.

PS is it a 120Y bar? if not, get one. they are about $10 - $20, and better than a 1200 one.

Hi Simon,
It took me 16 hours to transfer everything from one sedan to another, including dash and all wiring except the rear wiring. I used a B210/120y sway bar, forget the 1200 bar, it is not worth
getting the broken bolts out when the larger B120/120y sway bar is so cheap and better. Also try to find urthane bushings to replace the rubber bushings holding the sway bar and the end
links, they also will pay for themselves in fun of driving. It is the small things and attention to detail that make one car just a bit better than the other ones just like it. The way I see
it, no car is free, you have to make payments on it, even if it is paid for, so keep putting X amount of dollars into it on a steady basis, just like making payments and pretty soon it is
the nicest one like around. When you get a 1200 the way you want it, it is the most fun vehicle on the road. Go with the larger sway bar, COMPRENDE.
Mareo

Cheers for all your help. Mareo, how does the 120Y sway bar bolt up. If it still uses the same bolt holes its not going to bolt up! but I have noticed from other messages that the 120Y bar
is the go.
Its taking me longer than 16 hours :( because I have had to change such things as calipers and hubs onto different struts etc. I also have other things going on such as TAFE, I just need
some good time (couple of days) solid work to get it done. My plan is to get everything changed over and going then replace parts for rally spec stuff, eg springs, shocks, bushes etc etc. I
would invite my friends to help but I just hate having to look over their shoulder to make sure they are doing it right. Plus I know my car back to front and dont have to look up anything
in the workshop manual, Datto's are such simple cars which makes them great to work on, none of this fancy electrical stuff.

Simon :)

The best way to fix this is center punch the center and drill out the old bolt slowly to the size of bolt minus thread around 6mm from memory you will find it may spin the
entire thread out has worked for me many times :) good luck if it drills out and thread is left get a thread tap and rethread it.
Cheers Andrew

You have that right, Simon, the 1200 is the most simplest car ever made, hurray for simplicity. I love the KISS philosophy, Keep It Simple Stupid. Simplicity wins races. And yes, the 120y sway
bar is a straight bolt in but you need the 120y mounts for it, the ones you have broken the bolts off of. I also like your determination of doing it yourself so you know that it is done
correctly. I let very few people work on my cars also for that same reason. Like I have said before on here, I bought a 1965 Pontiac GTO when I was 18 years old. It had the 389 CI (6.5L) tri-
power motor. I took it to the dealer to get it tuned up and it didn't run as well when I got it back as it did when I drove it there. I can spend the time and fine tune that attention to
detail that the dealer's mechanics do not. When I rebuilt a Corvette 327 motor, my friend couldn't understand why it took me so long to do it. I told him that I could get up to 25% more
horsepower from it than the factory had, using the same parts. He just couldn't understand how. Balancing, porting, matching and lightening work wonders. I think I have photos of both the GTO
and the Corvette in the photos section. KEEP ON TRUCKIN'
Mareo

if the hole ends up to big to retap with an M6x1, you MAY be able to open up the hole to 6.75mm and tap it
with an M8x1.25.

Simon,
If you can't re-tap the holes correctly, you can put bolts in with nuts. I have had to do that a lot on the 1200s, especially around the front fenders. It should work on the
sway bar also.

the easiest repair if you can't drill the bolts out it to make a new sway bar bracket with wider bolt spacing, drill new holes in frame and install rivetnuts. also in my opinion bigger
bars are not always better. I run a datsun autocross car with stock front bar and 5/8 inch rear bar.the better your suspension is set up the smaller sway bar you will need.I am considering
selling my car due lack of time to run it. picture in default culb album under bobs1200