so at the moment my ute is running a ca20e (dirty engine, in it when i bought her) and i really need something more revy with a bit more power and was thinking of getting a ca18de for it. i really wanna do away with the hassle and ugliness of fuel injection though and was thinking about running it off twin or quad carbies. i'll spend a bit of money getting a decent set of 4-1's for it and a relatively free flowing exhaust and leave it like that for a while and then later on when i have more money get some real lumpy cams, up the compression, strengthen the whole thing internally to take some crazy rpm's, lightweight flywheel, knife edge crank yada yada and have an insane n/a engine sounding like it's about to explode just idling all just dreams atm but if i can get away with engine, carbs and headers for maybe 1500 or less would be really good, at uni atm and pretty broke haha.
so yeh any ideas or opinions are more than welcome you can try convince me for turbo if you want but i just like the idea of a really ballistic n/a engine revving it's head off
cheers
jed

I like carbs to! but youl be lucky to get carbs on a manifold for that money? if its not ya daily drive, try sell your old motor first maybe??

Definetly not do-able with that sorta cash. If you mean decent extractors than $1500 will about cover the extractors alone especially custom ones. I would keep it N/A and just have an ITB setup on it. Tomei make an exquisit set of tuned length extractors for the Ca18de. If you look around on google i came across and fully Tomei built long motor that can be bought from the land of the rising sun revs to around 10,000rpm and pulls some pretty impressive power figures.

For the carbys you would be prolly looking around the figure of nearly a grand brand new for some side draught webbers or dellortos. A custom manifold on that would be exxy as well. I couldnt even put a price on that for you.

Cams around the $700 mark plus the high compression pistons and balancing and blueprinting required. You would be starting to look at figures within the realms of 5 figures. Thats before you even look for a computer for it all.

An NA CA18 are pretty damn cheap but you never know wat the insides are like. I would keep what you have mate and slowly prep the engine before you slot it in to your car. Do it properly and then you only have to do it once. The CA20 is not to be sneezed at either! Its great on fuel and extremely reliable in stock form.

Hope that helps

-Steel

There is a link I put on a Finnish dude who has modified the
same type of engine but smaller the ca18et 8v and has made 250kw
atw with boost from a good t3/35 sized Holset, forged rods and pistons.
In the UK they swear by the SOHC 8V Ca18 and results indicate that
boost and torque come earlier thanks to its swirl type design.
After 5k the 16v gains about 5% to about 15% more at 7500rpm.
However for the street these 8v turbo combos are formidable.

The issue with you is the ca20e which has 200cc more but long
thin weak conrods.

The bitsa choice is quoted from another site, it might help you
to strengthen your ca20e internals if you go this way.
*************
There are 2 sizes of Mitsu 4g63 rods. They are identical apart from the width of the big end. Any rod from evo1 onwards has the narrow big end. You need to take about 0.9mm off both sides (must check).
They are 150mm long and have 22mm pin, maybe 21mm. I had a set narrowed to run on a ca18det crank in a ca20 block with 84.5mm honda pistons from 2l CRV engine.
You can use 84.5mm pistons from a b20 honda that has been fitted with a b16a head. Go to http://www.theoldone.org or something, they sell a million sizes of trick pistons to suit any possible combination of honda you could think of. There are about 4-6 different crown sizes available off the shelf, so you can easily find something to fit.
The evo1 onwards rods are 150mm with 26.4mm wide big end that needs to be narrowed to 24mm CA crank. the small end is 22mm so the honda pistons need to be bored from 21 to 22mm pin, or you can get some trick wrist pins made up.
ca18 crank girdle will bolt on using ca20 caps and ca18det main bolts and will clear the ca20 crank. The early crank girdle from ca18det (late u11) wont fit.
i got a quote from econobelt in the states for a good price. they were going to cut down a 20mm belt to 19mm(3/4) to fit ca.
You need to drill the block on the ca20 in the same spot as the idler pulley on the ca18. drill to 8.6mm and tap to m10. You can also use a cut down h22a honda timing belt.
***************

I would stick with the 8v head and just change the rods and have the whole thing balanced.
There is a billet camshaft from the states at 179usd, adjustable timing sprocket for 90USD
and run straight LPG with a good ignition system on a cleaned-up no pollution geared EFI
manifold and modified Lukey or similar off the shelve exhaust system. Theres on for sale now
at aus12.com for 100aud. Open up the outlets on the flange and have extra material welded on the outside to stop cracking. Making them 1mm larger than the exhaust ports will help to
stop reversion and the factory shape also helps somewhat with its strange D like shape.
Clean the ports up from casting marks and get the valves reworked to improve flow.
regards, d
P.S. dont mess with carbs on these later engines or you will be canaried.

cheers
yeh i won't get any money for my engine, i saw a full pintara for sale for $150 so the engine from one must be worthless lol. and i think it's something to be sneezed at, thing is gutless as all hell! but yeh they're mainly crap coz they're just an economy motor for a family sedan, the general consensus seems to be that 5500 is the limit before i throw a rod lol.
how hard is it to make my own inlet manifold? get the two plates made up, one to bolt to engine side, one to bolt the carbies to and then join them with some pipe? i'm no pro welder but i'd be comfortable doing it myself. what's a second hand set of twin sideys worth that'll flow enough for the ca?
extractors i can just go cheapskate on as well, keep an eye out for a second hand pair of something semi decent til it gets done properly.
it also only gets driven say once or twice a month on average? so no probs taking it off the road for a while.
and fenix, don't think i'll need a computer for the carbs?

Copmuter was for staying EFI. Second hand carby prices will range from person to person but you could find yourself a set of 35DHLA dellortos or webber equiv. for around 300-400. The only problem with making your own manifold for an NA setup (turbo too actually) is that depending on how long your inlet runners are will have an impact on how the power is delivered and where abouts in the rev range. Extractors again wont be too hard to find, i cant remember off the top of my head if the CA20 exhaust ports are similar to the CA18 as you could then modify a set of CA20 extractors which are plentiful. I have a Ford Corsair that has the Ca20 in it and all i have done is fitted a K & N airfilter, a set of HiTech Extractors 4-2-1 through a 2 1/4 inch mandrel bent system, sounds quite nice and have a little bit mroe torque down low as well as more up high. All of that there cost me less than $500.

yeh cheers, just double checking that there's not some random feature that requires me to still have a computer. have done a decent amount of study regarding runner legths, diameters etc. thinking i'd probably go for some relatively short intake runners for some nice high end power, don't really care for low down torque.
thanks heaps

and in a 700kg ute torque from 1800 is realy a wory.

Well ignition is controlled by computer as well so imagine you'll still need it, unless you go for an old school dizzy somehow too.

I heard of a Ca18DE on carbs years back...in a 1200 too - in the 90's so it has been done at least once.

Its still possible to have electronic ignition without a computer. Maybe an decent aftermarket system like MSD or something equivilent?

And a CA18 and torque dont really go together, lol!