ok so i need to know a couple of things about putting an A14 head onto an A12 ,firstly is it worth the gain in port and manifold size ?

will i need to get the head shaved to get the comp rario down or can i just bolt it on ?

will it go better and make more power with high compression ,providing i use bp ultimate or something ?

can i bolt the A14 cam into the A12 block ? and will it NEED new cam bearings ??

what push rods do i need to run the oval port head and A14 cam (lumpy) ?

what head gasket should i run with this combo ? A12 or A14 ?

will the exhaust need to be modded to fit the A14 extractors with the a12 mounts cos the mounts are different and will i need to add or take some pipe of the exhaust pipe to get it to line up ?

i would like to go bike carbys later but i want it ready for my Ps and need a running ,reliable car to drive to work

oval port head in a A12 fits and use the rods from ur block. if u shave the head u will raise compresion not lower it. depending on what A12 block u have may depend on what cam u run. earlyer A10's and A12's have cam in a different spot so it needs a diferent cam to the A14 ones. i think cam bearing wear the least but this is not to say that ur are any good, extractors can depend on the car not motor. alot of extractors dont fit straight onto 1000's so im guesing there could be the same when it comes to 1200's and use a valve regrind set to suit your head. there are many kinds of head so make sure u have the correct gaskets to suit the head. there should be a number like "h89" ect on it. sometimes some heads have no numbers so u will need to show us pics. read into bike carbys. they may need to be setup to make your car drivable

> Firstly is it worth the gain in port and manifold size ?

Under 3,000 RPM, no not worth it. Over 5000 rpm YES


> will i need to get the head shaved to get the comp rario down or can i just bolt it on ?

No, compression ratio is the same. But you have to modify the head slightly.


> will it go better and make more power with high compression ,providing i use bp ultimate or something ?

All engines will go slightly better with higher compression and higher octane fuel. The difference is small but real. You have to decide if a small increase in performance is worth the cost.


> can i bolt the A14 cam into the A12 block ? and will it NEED new cam bearings ??

Stock A14 cam will go right in. Aftermarket cams may or may not.

It is recommended that you do NOT change the cam bearings. If you do they will have to be line bored.


> what push rods do i need to run the oval port head and A14 cam (lumpy) ?

With A12 engine, always use A12 push rods, regardless of the head.


> what head gasket should i run with this combo ? A12 or A14 ?

With A12 cylinder bores, always use the A12 head gasket. Use manifold gaskets to match the head.


> will the exhaust need to be modded to fit the A14 extractors with the a12 mounts cos the mounts are different and will i need to add or take some pipe of the exhaust pipe to get it to line up ?

Most likely no modification will be needed. With the stock pipe none are usually, but the pipe may hit the floor on some. But if you have aftermarket exhaust pipes, they may not fit exactly.

Pretty much covered everything above I can only provide my experiences.

I'm currently running a H75 head on an a12 block with a 36/36 DCD weber tuned for an a14 block. (A14 needs a re-ring)

As DD says, its gutless below 3k, I got no tacho (not wired in atm) so i cant confirm exact revs but to drive it fast it needs lots of heel toe rev matching to keep it on song.

So I wouldn't recommend it as a daily drive unless you like having to rev the tits off ur engine!!!

Also why not go the a14 block?

I didn't need engineering with mine. Told the RTA/Regency dudes I blew the A12 and had the A14 lyin around. as u use same engine mounts/x-mem etc it was deemed a replacement engine and is now on my rego papers.

I know ur on ur Ps but hey worth a try I reckon.

ok that clears some it up ,now i need to get the head plained ,being that it had a blown head gasket and it will cost me $80 to get the head plained and then $18 for the new head gasket

and yes i drive it above 3500ish most the time ,so it should be ok ,and plus it would be better for driving around town, cos the A14 i had in it was realy hard to drive around town cos it wouldnt go over speed bumps and stuff ,unless i had it up the revs and it then made abit too much noise hehe anyways i will start pulling the head off the A12 tonight and send the head to the engine builder to get tidyed up ,and i have new valve stem seals to put in it too so i might aswell put them in

I've got a H89 on my early 12, re drilled the oil gallery, and bob's your auntie, with the massive stick, GX carbs, double springs, and Billet rocker spacers, electronic ign, spun to 8k no probs.. only a lot lazy under 3500 though.. lmao..

why was the a14 such a pig???

i dont know why it was like it was ,it may have something to do with timing or the fact that it had a blown head gasket ,but im not sure on that one

do i need to redrill the oil gallery you speak of mike ? and where is it on the head ?

does it need to be 100% perfect on the head or just line up the head gasket and then mark and drill ?

how far would i need to drill into the head ?

If your A12 is a front-dizzy block, then you need to drill an oil passage in the newer head.

Your head probably does not need planing. I have yet to encounter a blown head gasket on an A-series where that was needed.

Measureing the head with a straightedge will tell. Most mechanic shops will not check, will just do the job regardless because with other engines the two go together.

its probably the cam causing it to be a pig in the lower revs. what carb(s) are you running?