well in the rain under a car i decided to replace the drag link at night by my usual spot light...(more ongoing drizzle than rain but wtfachizzle)

so i got the inner tie rods of with my $12 splitter lol
get the idler arm side off with the ball joint splitter borrowed from wurzel (sont read on dave- sad story ahead)

and feeling happy to remove the steering arm side joint of the drag link. i knew it was going to be bad as there is no boot left, just caked on grease and dirt.
crc it and scrape off the crud... let it soak. try the spliter- no joy.
try shocking it hot with taps from the hammer.no joy.

try using the ball joint splitter- no joy it broke!(sorry dave- will get you a new one one day)

ftied a 3 arm puller, 100mm one and a 60mm one- couldnt get them in there so decided to try and remove steering arm from the steering box...... no fing joy either.

so now i soaked with more crc and gave up... then it stoped drizzling wtf!(only on my misadventures)


long of the short... how do i get this last draglink rod out?????

there is no room between x member and the top to hammer it out (who cares if i smash it a new drag links going in any way and idler arm)

spliter isnt doing jack- or maybe its cause it was 145pm and i got sick of smashing it with a hammer and annoying my neighbour... hi too cause i heard you yelling at me.

either help on advice or come over and smash it out for me.... grrrrr


or actually GRRRRRRRRRR




now ive had a couple of jd, im in a happy place, just want to get this done. not giving me confidence to do the lca bushes ..... GRRRRR

BIGGER hammer more leverage and harder hitting, or angle grind it off

angle grind..... mmmm nice option. sparks, crc and wlwctricity in the drizzzle.... and me in the equation. what could go wrong

couldnt find the mallt. was pissed off at that in my shed of fury!!!!!
inder the car on that side after boing on there for 39years, its not going any where soon.

Any other tips to get this off??? Please

Heat.
Is the ball joint splitter still operational at all??
Best way to do it (if room permits) is to put the ball joint splitter in and open it out so it is putting a fair bit of pressure onto the joint. Then heat the housing around the joint while the pressure is being applied. At some point prior to the heat transferring to the ball joint stem you're trying to remove.
You can get a cheap little butane gas torch that do an awesome job (not the tiny one).
Like this-




I've got one if you wanna borrow it. As long as it doesn't go the same way as the ball joint splitter......

There's one arm left on the spliter. Not sure how effective it would be

C4 plastic explosive. make a shaped charge, detonate and it will be apart!
Not recommended in a residendtial area ;)

Bigger hammer and fork 5mins bashing no joy. Tried the broken ball joint puller and pop off it came lol.


Some thing not right pass side of drag link sits lower than drivers side.
Also I have to re do inner tie rods as entry angle different? Also if I put on full lock no tie rods connected it hits sump.

Don't remember this before. Also replaced pitman arm. Looks Identical side by side pitman and draglink. Weird.
Started raining so haven't hooked up inner tie rods yet.

So what dramas this going to cause if I try drive like this? Or should I just swap pitman arms again. Grrr

Any one got pics of their set ups

I can take some pics of mine (everything new), but your sump will be different and might not help much.