Checkout what I am looking at getting from Errol @ http://www.datrats.com.au ... any suggestions or comments welcome...

The struts are corner weight matched for 240 kg at each front corner. This covers 1200's, Sunny's, 510's, & Stanza's - with (L20B, SR20DE/T, CA18DE/T engines) as these only vary by 10 - 20 kg typically in corner weights. Heavier engines or lighter engines require different spring and valving rates. The spring and valving can be varied to requirements for the same price.

Each strut includes : -
Club race spec damper with valving rate matched to spring
Threaded platform, collar/lock nut and top spring support.
60mm ID linear rate coil spring (k = 5.37kg/mm or 300lb/in)

Tender spring fitted so main spring remains captive at all times.
$1458 a pair, with you supplying donor struts (200B, 240K or Stanza)

Adjustable strut tops with non wearing bearings are $600 a pair and can be made to suit the 1200.

AND FOR BRAKES:

The inserts are valved to produce a force of 150 kg extension and 120 kg compression @ a velocity of 0.3 m/sec.

One of the better conversions around is one built up by Trevor Pooley (Ozdat lister). I am also this conversion. The conversion uses the sumitomo twin spots that are widened to suit a 280ZX 20mm ventilated 250mm diameter disc. The conversion costs $730 total cost.

300lb springs are on the heavier side of what most imp prod cars run, and will be a bit much for the street if it is a dual purpose car like you say.

what brand shock?

non wearing bearings? that's quite a breakthrough!

how do they widen the caliper? I'd be a little wary of that - especially from a legal perspective. Check with an engineer before you hand over any money on those brakes. It might be fine (depending on exactly what he does), but I've never heard of anyone widening calipers before, and brakes are not something to take chances on.

Agreed with 300lb being a little on the heavier side, thats what I thought, but I have been told by some involved with GTP and other club cars that this will be OK, it won't be a daily driver so street driving isn't a major issue.

What issues are involved with being too heavy when talking track use?

I beleive they are Bilstein's.

As with the brakes, I have a mate who should look after me here, I will most likely skip this conversion mentioned above and see what he has to suggest.

Everything will be checked over with the engineer before I commit time and money.

I would agree that 300 lbs is heavy, for a 1200, especially a lightened one. As for corner weighting, that can only be done with the struts and springs in the car. The adjustable platforms not only set the cars height but the corner weights by pre loading the spring. The beauty of the 1200s original suspension is that the strut assembly is so light. Too many people screw up their handling by fitting larger struts and bigger brakes incorporating heavier cast iron hubs. My race car still uses shortened and wedged 1200 struts with and hubs made for Wilwood discs, the spring platforms are alloy as are the 4 pot Wilwood Superlite calipers. The whole assembly is still lighter than the factory strut assembly. Many people can't figure out why my car can be so light, but it's them who have built their cars heavier.

but you cant fit decent size wheels and tyres with 1200 struts, what do you have for wheels, or have you got flares?

300lb would be quite stiff I have 270lb in the front of my 1200 its fine on smooth roads and race track but a bit harsh on the country roads up here. Mine is in bits at the moment im unsure what Im going to do with it is goign to cost me close to $5k to get it going again the way I want with new bigger brakes some suspension mods and a new engine managment. The wife is less than impressed I may even sell it to buy a GTR at the end of the year decisions decisions !!! I have a new box and diff to fit Im just all datsuned out at the moment.
Cheers Andrew

what sort of price bracket would your doggy in the window go for? might start saving

I'm not sure what you mean by the size thing. Do you mean the clearance to the strut? I run 13x10 3 piece rims on the front with a 4" wide Zakspeed type flare. I can alter the offset of the rims by using different width outers. My hubs are alloy and have an extra 25mm added to the track on each side. I must post some photos of the car and suspension some time. I had a burglery a while back and the thieving bastards stole parts of my front suspension , including polished stainless tube bottom arms and alloy adjustable strut tops. I have'nt got around to making some more cos I'm too busy building cars for other people!!

what i mean is if you didnt have flares what width tyre and wheel could you fit

answer: stuff all

and saying 1200 struts are better than stanza or 240k struts doesnt really apply when someone putting stanza stuts has spent $100 to get em on and working and youve spent over $2000 upgrading your 1200 struts does it?

i agree with the unsprung weight considerations but realistically if you want to stop cars capable of 200 kph plus you have to compromise a little. i run 200 lb springs on all sr20 or ca18 conversions as this is a reasonable balance between daily driveability and the occassional fang around the track. good shockies play a major part in getting the right baance. i have also come up with a mod which allows fitment of either the sr20 turbo or ca18 front rotors & calipers to a standard 1200 disc brake strut for around $300. sorry to hear you are datsunned out andrew, but i know what you mean.
kev
kev