How would you fit a L18 into a 1200 ? it is quite high because of its long stroke is it possible without mutelating the bodywork?

i herd it might be posible to put one of the l-series motors in i duno witch one but you have to use the gx bonet ot sum thing the one with the buldge in the midle now i think of itit could have been the l-14 was said to be the motor that could fit in with that bonet

Quote:

It is possible to run the L series in a 1200. L18_b110 would be an authority on this subject as he runs a L18 engine in his car. As for the bonnet L18_b110 is running a standard shape bonnet on his car.

See pic at
http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=328

From memory the L20 may be a bit to tall though.

Cheers

I saved a copy of what I sent to the last person who asked here it is, some of the parts mentioned are from Australian cars, not available in other parts of the world, so you will have to substitute some locally available bits. and L20B fits no problems even though the conversion was originally done with an L16 block. I tried to mount the motor as low and as far back as possible without firewall mods.

here's a quick run-down of what we did. bought a SSS Stanza (A10) wreck, so that explains the amount of Stanza stuff in my car. The L20 is a pretty tight fit for both length and height, so the most important things are to measure everything carefully and be prepared to keep trial fitting the motor and box as you go.

The x-member. We picked the engine saddles off the Stanza x-member and welded them to the 1200 x-member, but slightly lower (measured the gap between the sump and the x-member while it was in the Stanza first). Then sectioned the hoop and moved it about an inch rearwards to allow us to fit the engine as low as possible. This is important to get the bellhousing to clear the transmission tunnel. I have a manual floorpan, if you happen to have an auto shell it will have a much larger tunnel making it alot easier. I also had to 'massage' the corner of the tunnel and firewall for clearance.

You'll also need to make a gearbox x-member. easiest just to bolt it through the floor with some reinforcing plates on the inside of the floorpan. Use the short extension housing gearbox and you'll only need to elongate the shifter hole by about 1.5 inches. I used the SSS Stanza 5spd. Some people reckon they are weak, but I've had a couple of years of sprints, hillclimbs and classic rallies with no dramas at all. I finally broke it late last year, and after having to change it, I strongly recommend fitting an auto tunnel when you do this conversion - it will make life much easier for you one day...

Front suspension & brakes. The stanza lower control arm will bolt into the 1200 x-member allowing you to use any strut and brake that the 1600's can use. If you are going to club race the car, you might want to re-drill the mounting holes for the lower control arms outward a bit to get more neg camber. And plate the x-member over the area. But even without doing that, you will get about 0.5 to 1 degree of camber due to the longer control arms. There is nothing wrong with the Stanza brakes and it's a common swap, as long as it is the Girlock caliper and not the Sumitomo one. The 1200 tie rod end will bolt into the Stanza steering arm. All you need to modify to fit these struts is the castor rod. just slot the rear hole on the 1200 rod, or get the Stanza ones shortened and rethreaded. Again, if you're going to club race it, get the threads lengthened to allow adjustment of the castor on whichever rod you use. The standard 1200 master cylinder is up to the job with these brakes.

Diff. Cheapest aneasiest option is the Australian built 120Y's BorgWarner diff. It will bolt in and you should pick one up for about $75. You shouldn't have any problems with it. It's the same 3.9 ratio, and is the same width as the 1200 diff. You will need to get a tailshaft made, or modify the Stanza one.

Other things I have used are a Volve 244DL crossflow radiator. perfect height and has been more than up to the job of keeping it cool. With a VB Commodore thermo fan on the front of the radiator. You'll just need to cut the raised section out radiator support panel to let you mount the radiator further forward. Datsun 1600 bottom rad hose and VN commodore top hose (cut down to suit).

clutch master cyl is Stanza as well. it is pretty straightforward to install the hydraulic clutch system.

just remembered, I sent this sort of stuff to davo1200 for the tech section, but I can't access the L series article...

i remember some one said that it was still being writen up so it wasnt redy duno who though

but if you had that bonet with the buldge in it would it be posible to put the l-series motor in with out having to lower the x member or some thing you could just make brakets so it meats up with the A-12 holes

I think others have said you don't need to section or lower the engine crossmember, although it can be beneficial for getting center of gravity lower (better handing). It's the L20B that's too tall to fit under the stock hood, right?

this is a bit of topic. but l18_b110 said about putting the 120y borgwarner diff in the 1200. what advantages does this diff have over the std 1200 diff??
DAVE

strength! havent had one so cant say much but by reputation they are quite stronger