Thanks feral, might just knock back the total advance and see how she goes. otherwise I'll send it to the trainees at tech and let them play round (work experience)

Damon

Yes. I have played with dissy advance curves and advance ranges but leave it some with a dissy graphing machine these days as it all gets very tedious and a greta time waster for a $120 - $200 modification that will be perfect first up.

If you are going to do it yourself, the bare minimum you need is a good and accurate dial back timing light, set of spring scales and an accurately marked crank pulley for 35 degrees of crank advance.
Good luck.

Thanks feral, I was hoping you would say that. that was one of the things I remember from tech, Have you had any experience with this type of conversion?

Damon

To limit advance, you add stops onto the dissy body to limit travel of the advance weights. Springs only change the rate of advance.
When you have changed available travel distance for the advance weights you can advance the static timing position.

U raise some very good points. Maybe a straight up conversion is no good. However most of the problems can be fixed. too much advance can be fixed by changing the springs(if it has any) to harder ones.

From an asunny post a while back: Well after 18 months of building 2 datsuns from the ground up I finally got my Sunny out into the forest last night,it was the George woods intro rally and my first drive for about 3 years.I must say the sunny is an awesome car and the A14 rocks incidently I had this car on the dyno a couple of weeks ago,she made just under 80kw at the wheels,now that was with a fuel starvation problem that I have since solved,and other problems related to the electronic ignition.Now I appologise to anyone that has built a pulsar electronic ignition after reading a post of mine and is now having problem with it.My problems with it took 300km to surface - one issue is they have too much total advance,even with no vacuum advance and so to eliminate "pinging" you run "TDC" as your static timing setting which creates annoying overheating problems.The other problem is that the striker plate has vertical movement(rocks on a pivot) and so at high rpm it will contact the rotor blade causing missfire and other electrical problems. My theory now is that Points are easy to set up and very reliable.

I saw the installation of Petronix Ignitor and its dead easy two wires to hook up!
the module sits inside the dizzy not outside!
Do you know how much they cost here in australia?

The article is for the B310 Japan and North American distributor (Mitsubishi). This is an easy one to wire up, with the full 12V coil. Is the Pulsar E15 distributor of the same type?

Another low-cost option is the Pertronix kit.

there is a pic of what is needed on this website. I have kept the ballast resistor. All u do is hook the black cable to the POSITIVE coil terminal, the other cable, blue? to the negative. U also need to hook the tab, near the vacum advance unit to earth.

Heres the link :

http://datsun1200.com/modules/nsectio ... p?op=viewarticle&artid=58

So the E15 dizzy still runs with a ballast resistor? i am interested to know as I have just completed converting one and am about to drop it in. so does anyone have that part of the pulsar wiring diagram then?