converted,i spoke to john rawson a while back,& he said all he needed was the cluster gears,minus the crown wheel.by this i mean the spider gears in theirhousing.his suggestion was a post pack,as with the h165,this is reasonably compact.i've finally got close to the point were i'll do this,but it'll be a h190,instead of a h165. i got a great deal on a gazelle diff drum to drum ($70),which will go into the sunny sedan with a 4.3:1 diff,& the existing h190 housing will go into the sunny coupe which will be my street car.

tayell automotive in east bentleigh
ph 03 9579 5529
John Rawson is the blokes naem

they way it normally works is that you drop your centre off and 10 days and $250 later you pick it up with sprung load fitted, obviously not how you'd like to do it converted, so i guess you'll have to ring him and see what he can do for ya

Ok RC can you post some details, and do you need a different part number PG for each different ratio or does the same one cover a H165 3.9, 4.11 4.875 etc?.

Yeah, it seems like a good idea to make the block sacrificial.

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Good Idea about the magnetic plug.
1200Coupe told me that he had his plates hardened so that they were still a bit softer than the side gears. This way the plates should wear out before the gears do.

From what I can see, the limiting factors that decide the amount of torque the centre can transfer to the axle are -

1 Area of gear in contact with the block
2 Friction between the gear and block
3 Amount of clamping pressure applied to the block by the action of the cross pin on the ramp.

The area available to transfer torque being so small, means this is the major limiting factor of this type of mechanism. When the load on the gear becomes sufficiently high, oil between the gear and block goes into shear and metal to metal contact occurs.

I wouldnt be using one behind a N/A SR in an H165, but would probably be good behind a hot A15. I would make sure I had a magnetic collector plug in the diff though for wear particles.

I assume the block would be made from nitrided 4140 or similar???

the blokes i got mine from sell and fit them for $250 if anyones intrested i can put details up, it saves the work in building one and is still a cheap alternative, but as 1200coupe suggest the tolerences need to be diff specific so id be having a good chat to them about how they go about it all

but that said mine works well so they must be doing it pretty well

lol, nice to see a turn around

the guys i got mine from do say that if you have more than 200hp (im pretty sure at the wheels) then it's not worth using one, so yeah your right about that

but i guess if you have more than 200hp your not "budget" racing anymore and can afford an lsd

So can we have a drawing then? PLEASE?

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I think that "lower power" would be subjective. If you were weaned on 10second cars, then yes!, they would be insufficient. However I feel that in a bigger diff, ie one with a much stouter pin, and with the lemon slots the right shape, that it should able to survive anything an "a" engine could throw at it. I think at the end of the day, that the diff pin failing would be their undoing. And compare an H165 to the diff in a real monster, and there's no real comaprison.