I gave up on the weber, and installed a propane kit. I had many gremlins, secondaries sticking slightly open all kinds of nonsense...

In fact, i just gave away my weber 32/36...

someone please come up with a cheap easy TBI system for the A15 so we can bury the carb!!

The problem is many webers are 'rebuilt' that doesn't mean they work. Also using them on a tiny 1.5 liter engine makes the adjustments much more critical than they would be on the 2.2 liter engine it was intended for.

I think the DCOE and other side drafts are probably good,.

a weber well tuned should perform as smoothly as a well-tuned stock carby. i only had troubles with my weber when it was jetted for an L20 (when i 1st put it in my a12).

im currently looking at changing my jets now im using a pair of dcoe webers, as it drinks too much when i floor it a lot. (used 1/2 tank of fuel in 100kms chasing my old man in his e-type after saturday of the bathurst speed weekend). my engine oil temp reached 100c, even with a small cooler!! im changing to 20w-60 oil now!

as for tuning, a friend of mine has been tuning the mixture by ear until i bought a carb balancer which is GREAT, (just like the ones on ebay), it makes tuning a pair a lot easier. they run well but backfire a bit when cold, apart from that theyre perfect. can idle at ~700 smoothly, although i run idle up to 900-1000 when at normal operating temp. cold start idle is around 500-600 at which time the datto is a little wobbly. i dont use the choke on my dcoe's..

ive had no experience with 32/36 down carbs, so perhaps this doesnt apply much.

my dcoe's keep me sane

I've realized that if i get the carb overhauled it would work really well.

I got my carb from someone that was using it on an MG. It was probably jetted right for my A15. So re jetting it to what was good for an A12 didn't help.

when it's running properly there should be no flat spots. I'm thinking that i'll get it working right someday...

so yeah Look at MG weber jetsizes.

I gave up on my weber on the weekend....
After messing around for ages and still not being happy with low speed mannerisims(pig rooting all over the place) i took it off and refitted the original.So much better, OK it's not as responsive and doesn't rev quite as hard but it is so much smoother...

I have one of those ugly CA emissions carburetors. When I took it out i left the altitude compensator hooked up since it took forever to get it set up right last time.

I plugged the 3 vacuum lines on the back of the carb, the ones for egr and whatnot. it still didn't run.

The weber is behaving much better today. I played around with jetting and used my set of 45,50,55,80 jets to determine that the 55 seems like the best primary idle size for me.

I found out where my vacuum leak is.

the shafts for the primary and secondary butterflies are leaky, I thought it was my crudely made adaptor plate, but i belt sanded the surface of it and made it nice and smooth, and made sure it seated good.

So i guess a rebuild is coming up.

another story of why one should buy the whole redline kit and not try to piece it together.

I looked at those links, i suppose I could buy the weber book.

I found some stuff on setting up a DCOE which seems to at least provide some guidance for jetting and general setup.

http://www.teglerizer.com/dcoe/webertune.htm

I'd stick with the OEM carb. It only needs three things:

1. vent the top to the air cleaner
2. Connect the anti-diesel valve to the IGN +12V
3. Connect the electric choke to the voltage regulator

It does not need all those hoses and wires ... they control other things, not the carb.

See Carb adjustment, troubleshooting, rebuild and inspection

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***** Sounds reasonable.
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***** Because the Weber doesn't have the anti-dieseling solenoid [like the stock carb had] that shut off the fuel flow from the idle circuit when the key is turned off.
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***** Check out this site: http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/technical_information. They give lots of tech advice for Webers.

maybe someone who knows carbs can explain to me a few things.

It seems like the primary idle jet should be ~55 ( since the A12 size is 50 ) [or am i missing something?]

1. Why does the car like to keep running when i turn off the key?

2. What are the air correctors for?

3. why does the car not like idling at the proper rpm? Is that a vacuum leak thing?

Should I have the carb rebuilt before i make myself insane?

Thought I'd be smart and take my weber out and put the oem carb back in since the weber is acting a bit funky.

big mistake.

either something crapped up the oem carb or it really needs all those ugly vacuum lines and such to work at all.

anyone get any better ideas for weber 32/36 jetting for an a15? I think my carb needs to be rebuilt and that's part of why it isn't working nicely. Still works better than the OEM one.