well last night i marked out the maximum i could cut out of the fire wall without interfeering with the steering assy, brake/clutch cyls and wiper motor. I then cut this out and cut back 200mm into the tunnel and floor. Initially i tried to get engine in by lowering on an angle but its too long. I then cut out the front bar that holds the bonet catch and the rad support was already cut out. Then with this done it became apparent that niether manifolds will fit as they are wider at the rear than the front, would require custom slim ones to be made. The next problem is that with the engine sitting right it pokes out of the bonnet sum 50mm! Also with the sump mounted between the crossmember and the swaybar the engine sticks well forward into the radiator space. So in summary it could be done with massive mods but i think its simpler to sell on and think of something else, atm im thinking probably stick with the old l for a while after all its all setup waiting for more power. All the cutting was done on my dead test shell!

ok daveman.... the commodore rb30de gear box cant handle the loads form an rb20det motor for very LONg... can i spell it out any clearer.

Fining the r33 rb25det geabox wont be cheaper but will be worth it. It shifts a bit smoother too (re-engenieered and strengthed from r32). Rb20det gear box will be ok but make sure its not from an rbde engine... wont last long.

Quote:

That shouldn't be too hard. There will be a wire or two either on the trannie, or mounted on the t/bar. (Different car makers use different systems)

I was inquiring about using a commenwhore box because I have been thinking about getting a Cefiro. There are sweet FA manual ones around, and the autos go BANG at about 170 K. Plus commenwhores are like clitorisis, evry c*nts got one. So much easier to find a manual box from one of those.
Do they use the same flywheel?

Mate, a gearbox is more likely to hold up in a lighter car because it doesn't have to move as heavy a mass, you don't get the same sorts of loads on the driveline. Not to mention the fact that you will probably have smaller wheels and tires than a big car which work as a torque limiter by slipping!

An RB25 box will cost you a mint so unless you are going to get serious with the car, find an RB20det box. They go pretty cheap.

As far as I know you can use an automatic ecu, you just don't need the automatic unit itself. You do however, have to trick the computer into thinking it is in park all the time because the autos had to be in park to start.

gear box will fit but a single cammer gearbox from a rb30de commodore or sr31 skyline wont hold behind a rb20det for very long, especillay in a light weight car..... if you can find an r33 rb25det gearbox... they have a great reputation for strength....
other wise autos are cheapish.. but will definantely need a shift kit and better line pressure, for the money and mods, better off with a proper manual conversion.... makesure you get the manual computer ecu too, other wise you will be chasing your tail with tuning and wiring problems.
keep the rb20 stockish (just with exhaust, fuel and intercooler) and dont rev it too hard and keep the boost down, should be wild in a 1200, just will handle poorly and chew fuel. Their off bosst performance is also pretty poor compared to rb25 and rb25neo's

Think about your steering now so you can evaluate costs before you come unstuck.

yes they should bolt up but i am not sure about the length diference

Does anyone know if the box from a single can RB will fit? Like the one fron a vl comenwhore?

i will back you up mate
my stock rb20det in my line is quicker than my mates stock sr20 in his silvia
they have absalutly no reliability problems they are bullet proof they can handle 400 hp on standard internals yes they have a crap turbo from standard
but wack on a vg30 from a 300zx and you will make an easy 200rwkw with the right fuel system
but the best match would be the hks 2530
for around 220 to230rwkw at the wheels spooling up from around 2500rpm right through to 7000rpm any bigger turbo than that and it will be a bit lagy unles you dont mind boost coming in at around 4000 rpm then you can make some big hp with a bigger turbs if you whant to know all there is to know about thease engines go to rb20.com i plan on puting one in a 240z after i have finnished my 1200
oh an good on you for trying somthing diferent iff all our cars where the same it would be verry boring

well i got the rb for a steal! Just need to fork out for a tranny, why do these engines have such a bad rap? what are there reliability problems, powers not a problem ill be more than happy with near stock. they make more grunt than a ca or sr and have a better valve train than sr, sure they have a #### turbo holding them back but ive herd of internally stock rb20dets pulling well over 200kw at the rears with the right combos and tuning.

How many of you think its a sin to start chopping the firewall up? the only thing worrying me is making sure that nothing warps and adequate restrengthning.

Since the extra weight wont be directly over the front wheels unlike say a v6 or v8 im hoping it wont be too bad handling wise. i will try and get the rear 2 cyls behind the firewall.

Come on guys the rbs sound awsome isnt this reason enough? And theyd have to be one of the lightest l6s around?