any luck with the brake light being on all the time? Maybe the voltage regulator in the dash died... I think that is the typical cause of brake lights being on all the time when there isn't any break problem.

I believe thats all good. The light isAlways on, I suspect the hydraulic brike light indicator is acting up. Or the e-brake swidch is flakey.

Not a 1200 a B210 Coupe.

Still looking for donor to do manual swap, if there are any candidates down there let me know. Like that one in the woods.

Quote:Check the brake pedal. The switch is shut when the pedal comes up. Either the pedal height, or the switch may need adjustment. The factory, and aftermarket, repair manuals detail this delicate adjustment (adjust pedal height first).

Easy check: Push the switch closed by hand. If the light goes out, an adjustment is needed. If it doesn't go out, there is another problem (switch is bad, most likely).

Quote:Your 1200 has a rear defroster???

NP dd, now if I could trace the two other electrical problems I could move on.

Brake light indicator stays on.
Rear defrost not working.

You can probably appreciate the value of the later of the two, especially as the winter approaches here in the northwest, er southwest, well, mid left side.

OK, I checked out underhood on my 1200, and I'm using the WB and WR wires. Sorry to have steered you wrong. I've put a photo of it in the Photo Album.

I've updated the B110 Wiring article with the corrected Alternator info -- now with photos and wiring diagram.

When I first got my 1200 motor (with Lucas 15ac alternator) I decided that it would be a good idea to put a relay to the coil to avoid dodgy old wiring through ignition switch - anyway- it made the car run on after turning the key off. I traced the problem to be a sneak from the alternator. I wired a diode into the leads from the alternator so current only flowed one way. It occured to me later that someone had removed the regulator which I think from memory has diodes in it and would have prevented this continous running after key removal.

A different problem but no doubt very similar.

Hi Keith, glad to hear it's working now. It sounds like you have a bad wiring harness.

I'll double-check tomorrow which wires I have connected where, and get a pic maybe. I'm using a 1980 alternator (B310/210) from A15 type engine.

OK, I took it to the auto electrician today. He said the white/blue white/black bridge was wrong. He bridged the yellow to ignition from elsewhere on the harness, as he suspected that there was a break in the ignition wire at the regulator connection somewhere.

Finnaly I can sleep at night now.

the yellow wire is the s terminal on the alternator. The white/blue and white/black were the wires I bridged.

that is bad... your alternator is not charging... my alternator from sentra (B13/14) pumps out 70A get the reading of 14.6V constant when engine is running (abit high :D)