I reckon the biggest problem with sealers is using to much, for the rear seal cut the nozzle close to the end & put a small bead just in the corner, to much & the seal slips everywhere untill it dries.
Copper coat is good stuff for lubricating nuts & bolts, it used to be used on old copper head gasket, but when used on modern head gaskets it with stop the sticking affect, the blue ring around each hole in the gasket glues to the block & head. My cousins A15 runs 14:1 compession in his litre sprint car & often blows head gaskets. I've herd that Larry perkins araldited his heads on???
Trev

Yeah I think there is a balanced view between what AA/Permaseal say (I think there err on the side of caution) and using gasket makers only without any gaskets at all (which sadly I have seen done on sump and even head gaskets) - by dodgy mechanics.

I think I will try putting them in dry to start with and keep an eye on any potential problems.

I'll buy some of these Permatex products anyway so they are on hand if I eventually need them.

It's a tough call, especially for crank seals which will be a hassel to redo...but life wasn't meant to always be easy...just most of the time.

Anyone put a rear main in without some sort of sealant - and NOT had it leak oil?

Thats not the first time I have heard not to put sealers on head gaskets. Providing the 2 surfaces are even that method is 100% correct. But if you have a worn block surface its a good idea to use hylomar on the head gasket as it will fill up any small amounts unevenness on the block or cylinder head. Head gaskets these days have a smooth finish on them so the gasket can move with the two differant metal surfaces expanding & contracting at differant rates.
As lurch said do what ever works for you.

Hrmm...
'AA Gaskets' make a few good points there.
Well in the end mate it's really up to you.
You could always assemble the engine with the gaskets dry & see what happens.

What will happen Ben, is that after you have done a few engines you will hit upon a 'magic' combination of assembly that will work really well for you.
I was merely adding my methods that have worked for me.

Yes, the Ultra Blue IS a gasket former/maker but I have found it beneficial to add a VERY thin film of it to troublesome gaskets that are in contact with lots of oil - e.g. sump, timing case etc.

Oh, & 1 last tip: I suggest wiping every mating surface where a gasket goes with

If only I knew to seal the rear main seal I wouldnt be pulling the motor!!!!

After ringing the supplier of my gaskets, AA Gaskets they sent me the following technical bulletin.

Quote:

Hmm good suggestion WhiteSedan.

It seems after reading the Permatex catalouge in some more detail.

Permatex

D-d-double post...

Also with valve cover gasket, use desired gasket goop on the valve cover side of the gasket (let this dry and trim off any excess internally) then use a smear of wheel bearing grease on the head side so you can remove valve cover repeatedly before having to replace gasket!

Thanks Lurch

I'll have to check it out....

I initially thought the idea of a gasket was that you didn't have to use these types of products, but it seems by using both the engine can be better protected again.

An in a car that will do most it it's kms on the circuit, the better the seals the more time between rebuilds.

Looking at their website
http://www.permatex.com/auto/autouh.asp

It seems some of their products are advertised as gasket replacement gels...