Ok guys.
I want to come back to this post of mine.
I am now planning to do as 1200coupe said.
Now my question:
Is there not some water ports that I will hit along the way?
How deep can I go? Will I be able to remove 2 cc's from the chamber by grinding not along the edge of the chamber but downwards to make the chamber more hollow.

I am planning to take the cylinder head to a guy who does all the drag racing guy's cylinder heads here where I live and talk to him explaining my problem.
What do you guys think?
I talked once over the phone with him and he sounds like a old guy.Meaning, maybe he will know the GX head's design very well and will know where to do what.
I also want him to put in A15 valves and gasflow the exhaust ports, swirl flow the intake ports and polish the combustion chambers.
Any info welcome.

Its not hard to do at all, especially on an A series in a low state of tune.
All you need to do is grind a bit out of the chambers depth, avoid changing the outside shape of the chamber or working close to the valve seats if you are new to this type of work.
Dont be frightned about doing it because you will be surprised just how easy it really is once you start using the die grinder.
Remove some material and re CC to check, then redo as necessary. Dont take too much material out, go slow, take your time and you should be OK.

Hi GXman,

You might read some of the Ford or Chevy sites, and see what they say in general about "combustion chamber" matching. It seems like it would be safe to remove area around the edge of the chamber ... but I don't really know.

Can anyone give answers?
Where to remove material and also what shop can maybe do this for me if it is not recomended to do it myself.

That's an 8% difference between cylinder #1 and #2. I would think that'll make a difference, you might have to retard the ignition to keep #1 from detonating, but then numbers 2-4 won't be working at full capacity. So I would take a grinder and remove a little bit of aluminum from #1, to make the CCs even.

The difference (without figuring in the width of gasket thickness) is 10.3:1 compared to 11.2:1. A pretty big difference.

What do you guys recommend? Just use a moto-dremel tool, where should the material be taken from? Or should this be taken to a professional shop?

As far as the fuel goes , if you are still running a factory GX engine then you'll be ok on regular fuel.Unless you have higher comp. pistons , then it starts getting interesting. Some good machine shops can make a "COPPER" head gasket at the thickness you need for the difference machined off the head, but you may need to supply a stock head gasket for them to go by.And the good thing about that is you can use the copper head gasket over & over again.

Hi all

I had a chance this weekend to measure the cc of the combustion chambers on my spare GX cylinder head.
Remember the head has been skimmed to 73.0mm due to warpage at previous owner.
Starting at the front and then going to the back of the cylinder they are:

1. 26,2 cc
2. 28,4 cc
3. 28,4 cc
4. 28,0 cc

What do you guys reccomend and think about it?
Will the differences be bad?
What place can I go to to make the chambers equal again.
Also, what compression will this cc's give on a GX engine. Will it be ok with pump fuel or will it cause detonation.
Sorry for all the questions.

ddgonzal

Thanks for the info. I think I will check the cc's of the chambers when I get some time.
I was just worried that when the time comes and I need to use the cylinder head that it will ping or something and I will not know why.

And also out of curiosity.

Nah, it won't matter much.

If you were racing, you'd want to get that last 1/2 HP out of the enginee. If one cc is slighter smaller, you have to time the spark for the cylinder that is the highest compression. Unless the head is ported and combustion chambers matched it really doesn't matter. From the factory there are always differences ... see the Tech Section article "A-type Cylinder Heads" for information on how you can easily measure the CCs. Then let us know the difference between the highest and lowest.

You don't usually need to skim/mill the head flat because there are scratches on it. Most scratches don't cause problems.

I did take it in to a cylinder head shop.
The guy phoned me back 2 days after that and informed me of the following:

The head is skimmed to max factory specs of 73.0mm
The head is flat at the bottom where it sits on the engine block but the top where the tappet cover is screwed on, it is still warped.
Not in a bow like I explained at the first post but it is warped from the left front of the cylinder head to the right back of the cylinder head.
That is maybe why it was skimmed by the previous owner.To get it flat again.
Obviously it cannot be straighted on the cylinder head's top.
My concern is just with the chamber's cc.
Is it not affected in that they will be of different cc causing different comp ratios accross the cylinders?
Hope you guys understand what I mean.