BUMP

Umm... if your talking to me then I use a front sway bar

Just kidding. Its a home made sway bar. There was a pic last week of a real nice sway bar someone made. Ours follows exactly the same path and mounting location, but its a one peice bar, bent at both ends and has a flat blade at each end with three holes. I'll try get you a photo if you need more info.

What do you use for a front sway bar??

OK - NOW I'M REALLY INTERESTED!!!!

Our race car uses 1000 stubs with possibly bluebird hubs and jaguar rotors. We've never had problem of any kind but the camber does change during cornering. We have -3.5 degrees set but in photos of the car cornering you can see the outer wheel almost vertical.

You may have read my posts elsewhere about my road car. I'm currently doing the front suspension but I can't find upper balljoints to save myself. So I need to modify something else to fit. Next I was doing a disk brake convo as well but haven't spent any money yet. So the HZ hub idea sounds like a possible winner at the moment.

I think the taller HZ stub height will be an advantage for two reasons. It should increase the negative camber (erhh..decrease positive camber) as the wheel rises into the gaurd. Secondly, If you race in 3J class like myself then the rules state that you cannot modifiy the suspension pickup points or crossmember(s). Bearing this in mind, the only way to give a 1000 neg camber is to packout the inner mount of the upper control arm. When you do this, the arm collides with the chassis section of the mount when the wheel is lowered (ie when you jack the car just a bit). So the longer taller stub could solve this problem.

I'd love to know more about this conversion. What mods need to be done to the arms to accept the balljoints ?? Please give us some pics and details !!!!

I am using std stub axle, but when hard cornering the stub axle flexs as you can hear the front rotor rubbing against the caliper bracket (around 1mm clearance).

I am using 13X7 Hotwires with Formula Ford rear tires all round... The front unsprung weight is similar to std, maybe a bit more. It has an Ally hub but now has a larger Cast Iorn disc, Ally Camira caliper and bigger wheels and tyres....??

Perhaps using a shortened strut will help as the major length of it is a thin walled tube...

Does anyone know the size differences between all strut stub axle sizes (large bearing)?? say from 1000 to 1200 to Sunny to Stanza to 240k skyline???

Yes my car has LJ Torana stubs
But they are on fabricated upper and lower arms that bear no resemblance to Datsun ones
My car is tube chassis and everything is built to suit

And ?
It would be good to get the overall weight of the guys unsprung weight including the heavy ass wheels and tyres used and compare it to a HZ setup.

I cant wait for his long story.

I am guessing the weight issue Dodgeman was refering to was the additional unsprung weight, rather than the weight holding back the performance of the car.

I believe 1 of dattoman_1000 's sport sedans has holden front stub axles.
For a street car, weight is only an issue if you dont have enough power to start with.

There are a few members here who either have raced Datsun 1000's in the past, or who are racing them now. If you drop them a line i'm sure they would be able to tell you their tales of woe or triumph, & how any front end problems were overcome.
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Come to think of it, I don't recall anyone mentioning spindle failure in any thread that I have read so far, so perhaps you are trying to address a problem that really isn't there.
The only problem that I don't really like about the Holden "heavy duty' spindles is the 'heavy' part.

Anyway, drop the racers a line to get the good oil, & you may just be able to save yourself some work